Maytag RSW2400EAE Fridge No Water - ApplianceBlog.com

Don_G · #1 April 4th, 2006, 06:49 AM

Water flow at saddle valve "seems" great, Polyvinyl tubing to vlave at back of fridge. NO water to ice maker or front water spout. Could not find any in-frig filter. How to test valve?

***Jake*** · #2 April 4th, 2006, 12:26 PM

Did you take off the water supply line that connects to the back of the refrigerator's inlet water valve, and run the water into a bucket or cup to see if you have full force?

Jake

Don_G · #3 April 4th, 2006, 01:35 PM

Of all the threads regarding these type issues, the term "vigorous" or "full force" is used. When you tap into a 1/2 copper pipe and choke it down to 1/4 poly vinyl, WHAT DOES visually "vigorous" or "full force" look like? I thought it had a pretty good stream. By the way, I did put a Fridge Water Filter in-line after the saddle valve before the fridge and ran the loose carbon oput till it ran clear.

I do have a hand valve in that same 1/2 pipe that is not in use, do you think I should run the poly line from that instead? A saddle valve is not my preferred method, but working with what was already tapped.

The water spigot on the frig used to work and also the ice maker. The fridge was moved to it's present location from a different house. Over time it slowed down the water flow and had ice in the dump door in the door.

I could not find an internal water filter "in" the fridge, so added the external one.

Tahnks for any help you can provide.

***Jake*** · #4 April 5th, 2006, 12:05 AM

Yes, Full force means, a good solid stream with some amount of pressure behind it.

When I hear and see saddle valves people install, I always think Pinhole/needle valve instead of a opened up valve with a normal opening.

Now some saddle valves are not needle/pinhole types but a normal size opening in the water supply line, which is fine.

As I have seen the pinhole/needle valve types clog so much, as the opening is extremely small.

Its always best to use a regular size valve.

If you have a good solid steam to the refrigerator inlet water valve, then its likely your problem lies in that water inlet valve itself.

Jake

Don_G · #5 April 6th, 2006, 02:52 PM

Jake,

Okay, I took the 1/4 Poly line off of the saddle valve, connected to 1/2 copper with hand valve 3/8 reduced to 1/4 poly line. No change. No ice no water.

Do you think now that it is the valve at the bottom right of the fridge where I connect the poly line to OR maybe the valve up inside the freezer that feeds the ice and down to the water?

I see the coil of tubing in the fridge portion of the fridge, and it skirts back over to the freezer.

Which valve could it be? Should I just throw a dart at a picture of the fridge and if it hits in the upper portion replace the freezer water valve or if it hits lower down, replace the main valve at the bottom right. Would selecting the powerball numbers be easier?

Don

***Jake*** · #6 April 7th, 2006, 01:06 AM

LOL, Well, I wish it was that easy!

Without actually testing voltage to the water valve, you could change every part on that refrigerator and nothing would fix it if you have a wire cut or short to that inlet water valve. So having a Volt/Ohm meter is the only way to fix it.

Take off the wire connector to the inlet water valve that supplies your front dispenser, usually its the bigger plastic tubing that doesn't go up to the ice maker, then put your volt meter leads in that wire connector, and have someone press that front water dispenser, if your meter reads 120, your inlet water valve is bad.

Jake

Don_G · #7 April 7th, 2006, 07:15 AM

Jake,

I have a Volt Meter, it even came with instructions, ...have no clue who Mr. Ohms is or how he works, let along Mrs. Volt and how powerfull she can be. I'm a Mechanical Engineer, no electrical, it bites.

I'm gonna try it, but if you see a big smoke ring in the area of Iowa, ...that'll be me, fryin,...and probably still no water...until the fire dept arrives.

Wouldn't replacing that valve be easier than cooking with a fridge?

I'll keep you informed. Or read the obits.

Don

***Jake*** · #8 April 7th, 2006, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Wouldn't replacing that valve be easier than cooking with a fridge?

Yes, but its an awful feeling when you replace a part and it doesn't fix it.

This link explains about the volt/ohm testing:
http://www.applianceaid.com/electrical_testing_tips.html

Jake

Don_G · #9 May 9th, 2006, 12:52 PM

Okay, replaced the solenoid valve at the bottom back of the fridge, Oh lala, we have water on the front of the fridge, BUT after more than 48 hours no ice. Is there another valve for me to replace?

***Jake*** · #10 May 10th, 2006, 12:39 AM

Your fill tube to the Ice Maker may be clogged with ice, causing no water to get in the ice maker, that can happen when a water inlet valve is bad, then replaced.

Look inside the freezer in the back of the ice maker, you will see a plastic tube that runs into it, check that fill tube for ice blockage.

Jake

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