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#1
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My dryer will not stop running no matter where I have it set to (timed or auto). If I turn the dial to off the dryer will go off or if I open the door the dryer will go off but other than that it stays running. Also, the clothes come out really really hot.
Model # PYET344AWY AND Serial # 15888035GJ Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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#2
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I take back what I said about not working in any setting after some of the threads I went back and checked each one and it only doesn't stop when in AUTO but when it timed it does stop.
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#3
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Hi,
It sounds like you have a vent restriction. Pull the dryer away from the wall and run a cycle with no vent on at all, and see if it still has the same problem. If that fixed it, then check your dryer vent to the outside to make sure you don't have clogs anywhere. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#4
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We have already done that and it continues to happen. Could it be because the vent does not go straight out? It goes up then out. Do you think this is going to be a continuous problem? Any suggestions.
Thank you for your immediate response |
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#5
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Yes, the longer the vent run, the longer it will take to dry.
Jeff has a good webpage with more info on this here: http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.html Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#6
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Quote:
This happened to me on a Maytag Model LDE313. Lets confirm the symptoms. First, the dryer keeps running forever when the control is set to either of the AutoDry settings. When in Air Fluff, the dryer will shut itself off after the proper time. Secondly, when the control knob is turned to either of the Autodry settings (which uses heat - air fluff does not), the heat comes on AND STAYS ON. The dryer can get EXTREMELY HOT over several hours. The scary thing to me was, when I opened the door and the dryer shut off, THE HEAT STILL STAYS ON without the drum turning! I had to unplug it from the wall to get the heat to turn off. This happens when the dryer is off (ie. drum not turning), but when the control is turned to either of the Auto Settings. Solution: The heating element has broken. This element is contained within a "drum" at the lower right of the machine (front view, front panel removed). Test to confirm problem - remove both wires (one white, one black) from the "drum" (porcelain standoff, 3/8" wrench brass nut). Attach a multi-meter to one exposed brass screw and to a ground with multimeter set on ohm test (conductivity test - touch meter tips and meter jumps). Test both brass screws this way. If the meter jumps on either test, the element is "grounded" (broken and touching ground). This confirms the problem. Further confirmation - Remove the two screws at the base of the circular "cover" at the front end of the heating drum. Lift the cover and with flashlight, examine the heating coils. I was lucky enough to spot an actual break. I have been told that you may need to run your finger down the coil (is it still hot?) to confirm a break. Note: Half of the heater is still working by virtue of 120v coming through the timer (wrong direction) through the element and to ground (bad)! It is not working at it's design 240v. Parts: You have an option to replace the entire "drum assembly" ($68.23) or you can get a "Restring Kit" ($36.73). I chose to restring mine. The drum can be removed from the dryer and it opens like a clam to expose the heating element. Note that the four screws holding it together only work from one direction, so pay attention to how they are facing. Remove the old element and restring through the standoffs with the new. This worked for me! The timer began working properly, shutting off the heat after the proper interval. I came oh so close to buying a new timer ($121) because I thought the timer was bad. Wrong! The timer had not been injured. Good luck all! |
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#7
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Quote:
On this model, its alot different than your Maytag. The heating element on this model is on the top back once the top lid is raised. I own this model as well, and worked on hundreds of these in the last 19 years. Here is the heating element for model#PYET344AWY. Here is the photo of where its located http://www.applianceaid.com/images/ldrmc-heater.jpg. Here is more info on it: http://www.applianceaid.com/ww-and-mc.html#maytag_family Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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