Thread: Maytag Oven Problem

Hi,

then tried to relight it this morning and I couldn't even get it to light

Was the hot surface ignitor comming on?

What tells the gas valve for the oven to open or close?

Current flow from the hot surface ignitor.
http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/h...-works-C21.pdf
How a common gas safety valve works.

Any other tips on how to proceed would be welcome

http://www.applianceaid.com/gas.html#glow

Maytag flat oven igniter kit - if needed.

jeff.

Yes the igniter comes on, It seems to be more of a matter of gas not getting to the igniter

The ignitor must draw enough current to open the gas safety valve...the ignitor can glow and still be bad...



...if the ignitor is working and drawing proper current, then we would suspect the gas safety valve. If the currect draw is low we get small flames, no flame, gas odour sometimes, sometimes works and sometimes won't, etc.

jeff.

First off I would just like to say thanks for taking the time to answer my ?
That being said, I checked the load on the ignitor and found it to be 4.4 to 4.6 amps. Will a to high load also prevent the gas vavle from openning?

I'd recheck the meter....never have seen one try to draw that much current before!

Will a to high load also prevent the gas vavle from openning?

Since I have not seen one do that the 25 years that I have been servicing these, I'll guess that it could damage the gas safety valve....but the big question is why so much....short somewhere?

jeff.

some time ago we got the f1 error code on our stove as well. I pulled the plug for about 30 minutes plugged it back in and it has worked fine up until now. Think this could have anything to do with it? It is my understanding that the error code f1 is related to the touchpad. As for the meter, I checked it against a known load and it was spot on. The meter is a Fluke 87 with true RMS.

F1 can be a clock/control problem, key panal problem or an oven temp sensor problem....and your model appears to not have a seperate key panal as the film and clock are one piece.

As for the meter, I checked it against a known load and it was spot on.

Trouble is, the ignitor for your model is designed to draw 3 1/2 amps max....still can't get my head around why you read more...where are you taking the reading?...right at the ignitor?

jeff.

I am taking the readings from the red wire and also the white wire that comes from the gas valve and goes to the igniter. I also tried taking the readings right behind the igniter after I loosed the mounting screws to give me access room, same 4.6 VDC

My problem is resolved. First of I want to let the mods here know how much I appreciate the forum. Without this forum I would have had to pay someone most likely over a $100.00 to come out and diagnois the problem. Right now I am between jobs and that is more then we can afford. As it is the part was only $55.00 and my time. The duh part was on me, as I had forgotten that my meter defaults to VDC instead of VAC, so the 4.6 reading was really the 2.3 that I was getting when I set the meter correctly. So all in all it was the igniter and everything works well. At some time in the I will dive into the F1 error code and see where that takes me.
Thanks again to the fantastic help I recieved here.

Jimmer56