I'm glad I found this forum - there are some nice tips.

I have a 2003 Maytag MTF2156GEW. It felt like it was running a little warm, so I cranked the fridge section to 7 or 8 on the temp slider. That still felt the same, so I did a temp test and it came out to around 50F. Half-melted ice cream was a semi-common issue in the freezer, but I always figured it was my girlfriend's habit of keeping the freezer really full.

My investigations began when I started noticing that the ice was running out. I pulled out the fridge and cleaned around the compressor fan, but I now know that probably wasn't worth the effort. Eventually I removed everything in the freezer, removed the icemaker and back wall, and checked the coils. They had a dusting of frost on them, but nothing like solid ice. I hit them with a hairdryer just be sure, and fired some hot air down the hole to the fridge as well. Water dripped through that hole on the fridge side around the four styrofoam holes (which I've wisely read NOT to remove!). I also leveled the unit a bit, and might buy some plywood to correct a very slight slope from back to front in the floor.

One thing I've noticed is that there is a good bit of water dripping from the bottom of the freezer door, and I don't see a source. If I pull back on the seals, there is sometimes a pool of water forming back there. I put a light inside the fridge, closed the door, and looked for light leaking out - there was a little bit, but could that be causing so much water? It isn't coming from the ice maker. I noticed that the freezer door is a little downsloped from left (hinge) to right (handle), and that if I pull up on the door near the handle side I can get that side to raise about half an inch. Ideally I'd like to just adjust it, but I don't see how the stick-in-hole hinges really allow for that. Any hints? It looks like my only option is to find a washer that will fit around the post, but that can't be right.

Back to my fridge problem, though. Should I try to remove the covered housing on the top of the fridge portion? I can see that two little bars move when I shift the fridge temp setting slider, but maybe the damper is stuck? I'm new to this refrigerator repair game. After two nights wasted on this and the real possibilty of losing all the contents of my fridge, I'm getting to the end of my rope.

Sounds like you checked all the major parts. The evaporator coils should have a thin layer of frost on all of them. Was the freezer fan turning good and fast?

Jake

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That's a good question, Jake. I haven't observed the freezer fan running during my inspections.

What can I expect from it? If I unplugged it, yanked the food out and looked at the coils, then put all the food back into the freezer and plugged it in, how soon would you expect the freezer fan to come on? Does it usually wait for the coils to cool back down first, or would it sense warmth and kick on immediately?

The fridge is 46F this morning, so at least I won't lose stuff. I've got the thermometer in the freezer now. Maybe this is just a fan issue - is that a common problem? I'll check it again before I head to work and after work tonight and see if I can catch it running. Thanks again.

The fan should be on at all times when the refrigerator & compressor is running.

Jake

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So, can I assume that once the refrig has been plugged in for awhile, the fan should almost always be running? Especially if things are too warm and the coils are cool?

Is it logical that the compressor would be on to cool things downs (albeit slowly) and the fan motor is broken or not being told to turn on? The coils are cold, but I guess it would really need the fan to be running to cool the overall temps down.

Correct my logic if I'm wrong, but I guess that means that either the fan is broken or the temp gauge (or the circuit board it's on, assuming that is where the temp gauge is located?) is broken and not telling the fan to run. If I had to guess, my money would be on the board from what I've read on this forum about those things going bad.

What's my next step, then? Removing the assembly from the top fo the fridge section and checking the circuit board? If so, would you mind running me through what I should be checking on it?

First unplug the refrig. then ohm the evaporator fan motor for continuity.

Then plug the refrig. in, then check for 120 volts at the fan motor terminal wires.

A volt/ohm meter is the only way to accurately test parts.

Jake

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Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
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Thanks Jake, I'll do that tonight.

Another thought: maybe the timer is stuck on defrost? I'll have to look through other message threads and see if I can find a diagram for my model, but I'm guessing that it is in the fridge ceiling assembly.

#15 here is your defrost timer:
http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImageP...&titleID=00002

Has the refrigerator been off all day, is it running now?

Jake

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Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
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Ah, excellent diagram. Thanks!

I just got back home and it seems to be the same - just barely cold enough to not ruin the food.

I used a screwdriver to manually turn the grey dial which I think is part of the defrost timer. I marked it with a line on some scotch tape so I can check if it moved later. I did notice a light clicking noise coming from the area near that timer on the chart - I'm guessing that means it is at least still getting power.

I've still yet to see the fan click on. I need to get some sleep so I will put a meter on the fan this weekend as you suggested and post again.

I could still hear the faint timer clicks when I stuck my head in the fridge section this morning, and it looks like it is moving.

Jake, I think your focus on the fan is a smart one. I'm going to pry that back cover off again this weekend and test with a meter. The fridge temp was 46F this morning, not bad. I guess a moving fan would help lower it further.