Having trouble, hope someone can give a tip. The igniter does not turn red, there is no voltage (dc) coming to the igniter. Both of the coils have continuity, the ingniter has cont, the thermostat, and both "sensors" on the cone have cont. I also cleaned the surface of the thermostat. The small white plastic fuse on the housing also has continuity. Thanks in advance!
It's a Maytag Model 19862978 (About 10 yrs old).

G'day,

Not a model#.

Bad ignitor, bad flame sensor, no power from the dryer.

Should be AC power.

http://www.applianceaid.com/gas_dryer.html

jeff.

__________________
http://www.applianceaid.com/
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.jrappliance.ca
JRAppliance

Thanks Jeff, you are correct, the model # is LDG9206AAE. I found the heat switch was not working (had an open when turned to heat) I hot wired appropirate wires to get it to start. With the ft panel off i can now see the igniter gets hot, and it starts a flame for about 5-10 seconds then goes off. In about 1-2 min, it cycles like that again. In some earlier threads you suggested changing the coils. Even though I do have continuity through them, would you suggest I try it?

Flame sensor?
It must be closed until the hot surface ignitor gets good and hot and then open up so the power can be diverted to the gas valve.

Coils are bad for doing that....any buzzzzzing from the gas valve itself?

jeff.

__________________
http://www.applianceaid.com/
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.jrappliance.ca
JRAppliance

I listened closely, no buzzing from the valve. Just a firm click when it shuts off after about 10 sec. The heat switch I bypassed was on the top panel (air fluff vs. Heat) Sounds like that switch is probably OK based on your comments (I'm such a rookie) so I'll reconnect. The flame sensor is clean & has 1/2 ohm across it and the high limit thermostat is clean and also has ~1/2 ohm. still suspect the coils?

Two problems?
No ignitor originally and now you have that goes but still no flame?

Flame worked then?
You will loose air flow with panal(s) off as well.

jeff.

__________________
http://www.applianceaid.com/
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.jrappliance.ca
JRAppliance

It may be two problems. When I bypass the heat switch (the one on the control panel that says heat/air fluff), the igniter lights the flame. But the flame only burns for a few seconds and then I hear a click as the flame goes out. So even after I replace the switch. I suspect I'll still have the orig problem of no real heat--since the flame only stays lit for a short time. I also confirmed the air flow (as you suggested with bulkhead) and there is plenty of flow and no air obstructions. I left the timer in place as you suggested too, it had the same result of having a very short flame. Could a bad switch also cause the flame to shut off after a few seconds or are they unrelated?

I reconnected the "jumped" wires to the heat switch, and then I do not get a red ignitor or any lit flame for even a short time. So it was back to exactly the orig problem (the problem sounds very much like bulkheads too). Thanks again for the help!!