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#1
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Hi everyone... this is a great site. We have a six year old Maytag frig that was repaired 2 years ago for the ADC problem which is listed as a sticky on this forum. When I noticed it wasn't cold again tonight... I immediately thought it was the ADC again. Upon emtying the freezer and pulling the panels off the back... I was dismayed to see no frost. After emptying the entire frig... we're leaving it run... and it won't hold any temperature. It's currently reading 57 degrees in the freezer and getting warmer.
Any tips on what I should check next? I'm hoping it’s not the compressor. Many thanks, Rich Last edited by Mase; November 3rd, 2006 at 01:01 AM.. |
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#2
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Pull your refrigerator out from the wall, then open up your lower access panel in the back of your refrigerator, and check the condenser fan motor and fan blade to see if its running or not, also spin your fan blade to make sure it spins freely, and also touch your compressor to see if its running and if not is your compressor warm or cold?
Let us know what you find. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#3
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Okay... thank you for the suggestions. Here's what I found:
-Condenser fan is running and the condenser is relatively clean with no blockages -The evaporator fan is running -Every 60 seconds... a relay clicks... and then clicks back off less than 5 seconds later -After running for over 10 minutes... all of the lines in and out of both the compressor, condenser and evapporator remain at room temp. Hopes this helps... Many thanks. |
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#4
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The frig has now been running for about 35 minutes and I noticed that the compressor is getting warm... not hot, but warm.
-Rich |
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#5
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Ok, then its either a bad compressor relay/overload or a bad compressor.
To test the relay/overload, you would need a volt ohm/meter to check for continuity. This link also explains about it: http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator.html#clicking Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#6
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Thanks Jake... as a follow-up here's what I found. I pulled the start relay and overload off the compressor... and thankfully the relay when shaken sounded like a baby's rattle. I checked the resistance on the compressor with good results and set about trying to locate the needed parts locally. After several calls, I located the start relay and overload... $17 and a little reassembly... and we were back in business.
One word of note... one of the parts suppliers wanted to sell me a 3 in 1 starter instead. After reading some other posts from this site... I decided the original parts would be best. Thanks again!!! |
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#7
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Good job fixing it Rich.
![]() Yes, you did the right thing by NOT getting that 3 in 1 start kit. ![]() Here is the relay and overload for your model, in case others need to order it as well: Relay, start
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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