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#1
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My refrigerator side is not cooling. This is a side by side unit. The freezer side is fine. I made sure that there was no frost build up on the freezer side vents.
I have read some of the posts from people with similar models and the same problem. I took the plastic bezel off on the refrigerator side to see if I could see any type of electrical components. The only thing that I see is a little square part with a spring and a couple of light bulbs that can easily be changed. Where should I go from here. |
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#2
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I did a little more investigation into my problem. I took the back plastic cover off on the freezer side which has a fan behind it. It was the plastic cover right below the light bulb in the freezer held in by two screws. There was a huge hunk of ice on top of the coils right below the fan. I melted as much as possible with a hair dryer. The block of ice hadn't reached the fan yet. Could this be causing my cooling problems on my refrigerator side?
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#3
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Yes, that could be causing it not to cool in the refrigerator section.
Sounds like water from your ice maker, if equipped, is leaking down onto the top of the evaporator coils. Have you noticed any ice maker issues recently? Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#4
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No problems at all with the ice maker. It makes plenty of ice and I haven't noticed it dripping. Once I unloaded my freezer I was able to take both plastic covers off and get a better look. Much to my surprise my coils were frozen solid and caked with ice big time. Much worse than I had originally thought.
I have already removed the ADC from the refrigerator side. Once all of this defrosts I am going to replace the ADC. Even though my model is different from the other posts on here it still looks like it uses ADC part # 61005988. Since it is defrosting and all apart I am going to just take a chance and replace the ADC anyway since it seems to be the culprit for this type of problem in all the other posts that I have read. I don't have anyway of testing it. The refigerator is over 5 years old anyways. I will post back and let you know if it too takes care of my problem. |
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#5
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Jake, the only other thing that comes to mind is some 3 hour plus power outages that we suffered back in the summer. Maybe the thawing and refreezing on those coils were the beginning of my problem.
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#6
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Ok, I understand now.
![]() Yes, that new ADC board should fix it up for you. ![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#7
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Jake , I got the new ADC board today and happened to run into the Maytag Rep while I was purchasing the board. He told me to make sure that I take the new ADC board out of the white plastic enclosure that it comes in first before I install it.
He told me that they are finding out now that the white plastic enclosure is holding moisture and is causing the new boards to fail. He also told me that you can't have anything like a can opener or pencil sharpener plugged into the same outlet as your refrigerator. The surge that these devices cause are damaging the ADC boards. He also recommended using a GFI outlet. I just got the new ADC board installed and am waiting for my refrigerator to cool down from it's balmy 72 degrees. I am not sure how long that will take. |
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#8
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Quote:
Sounds like a disgruntled employee to me. You are not suppose to take that white cover off at all, Never!!! And putting on a GFI is even worse!!! No wonder Maytag got bought out by Whirlpool!!! Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#9
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Jake, How long should my refrigerator take to cool to a temperature between 32 & 40 degrees? It has been running since 11:30am EST today and is only down to 56 degrees. I just slid the temperature control to 9 which is the highest setting for cooling. It is also empty right now. The freezer part seems to be working fine.
As far as the white plastic cover that for the ADC board the rep told me that the white plastic enclosures are causing a moisture buildup which is resulting in ADC board failures. Do you have anyway of confirming this with Maytag? |
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#10
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Well, the truth is why would Maytag sell you a new ADC with a cover on it if they wanted you to remove it before installation? If Maytag didn't want you to have a cover on it when it was installed, they would have never put the cover on it in the first place, believe me I have installed about 100 of these new ADC boards with the cover on it, and I haven't had to go back on one to replace it again.
Did you defrost your entire evaporator coil before putting that ADC board on? If not, you will need to. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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