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#1
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The freezer side on my side by side Jenn-Air JRSD2790 is leaking. After reading the many great posts on this forum I narrowed the problem down to a clogged defrost drain.
I am trying to get to the drain to unclog it, and I know I need to remove the back of the inside compartment to be able to access the drain. However, all the diagrams I have seen here (such as this one) show a "shroud" (part 20 in the diagram) that goes about halfway up the inside compartment. The back of mine, however, seems to go all the way up, even behind the ice maker at the top. It believe that to remove the back, I would have to remove the ice maker as well, so it seems slightly more involved than just removing the shroud shown in the link above. I want to confirm if this is the best way to get to the drain on my model, or if I should do something different, or if I am somehow incorrect. In short, how do i access the freezer defrost drain on my model? I have tried to find diagrams for my model but have been unable to. Any help will be welcome! |
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#2
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Well, I figured it out on my own. Turns out the back "shroud" in my model is quite flexible, so I just removed the bottom 4 screws and it easily bends upward to provide access to the drain. I poured some boiling water into the pan, and it looks like it cleared the drain.
I have two questions remaining: the first: how quickly should the water be draining? If I pour a full cup of water (8 ounces) into the pan, how long should it take to drain? While the drain is now draining into the pan below the refrigerator (it wasn't before) it seems to take a while for a full cup to drain fully. Iam concerned that if this is too slow the water may freeze again. The second question is that there is a styrofoam "float" that was on the drain pan, not attached to anything. What is the purpose of this "float"? Could this float have been obstructing the drain, and contributing to the problem? Thanks again for any help! |
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#3
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Hi,
Here is the parts diagram for your model: JRSD2790 Look at diagram photo#11 part#22 thats the drain pan. I don't see a styrofoam float on it, is it taped down? Also I use a 1/4" plastic tubing or a strong wire to fish down the drain hole to clear it with that hot water. It will drain steady, not necessarily fast, but steady. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#4
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Jake,
Thanks. I looked at the diagram you posted. The "float" I am referring looks suspiciously like part # 6 (or perhaps part #3) on your diagram. I am guessing it somehow fell out of its correct place onto the drain pan, and contributed to blocking the drain, causing the original problem. It is about 3.5" long and made out of styrofoam, so I am guessing it part #6. I will try to see if I can get to where it belongs and put it back. |
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#5
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Jake,
Thanks again for your help. After you confirmed that there is no "float" I went back to the refrigerator and looked behind the cover once more. I am now confused! After looking at the diagrams you posted, the shape of this "float" suggests it is one of the three parts for the air return (the air return retainer, air return insulator, or air return tunnel). The part is 3.5" long, 1 3/4" wide, and 2" tall. It is made entirely out of styrofoam, suggesting it might be the insulator. However, I cannot figure out where it came from, or even how it got to the drain pan. I could not find any space around the evaporator through which this "float" could have fallen into the pan. The only possible explanation I can find is that during some service call in the past the part was inadvertently left there. Assuming I identified the part correctly, could you please let me know how to find its correct place? Thanks, |
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#6
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Yes, There is no float in your refrigerator at all, so I'm not sure why that styrofoam was in your drain pan, if its just loose and not mounted in, then just take it out.
The main problem you were having is the drain clogging, not that you cleared it, your good to go. ![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#7
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Jake,
Thanks again for all your help. The refrigerator has been running for 2 days now with no problems. |
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#8
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Ok, Sounds like you got it back to normal again.
![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#9
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If the drain line is frozen, you can use a turkey baster with hot water mixed with detergent to melt and drain it. If it keeps freezing up, inspect the door. If a door is not closing properly (freezer or refrigerator) is not closing properly, it can cause this to re-occus. Sometimes it is just the poor design of the machine, in which case we install a GH201 drain line heater which we connect to both ends of the defrost heater and we put it in the drain line about 1" deep.
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