motor, motor control or control board???

[bosshogg]

Background:
I have a Maytag MAH5500A washer. The machine won't agitate in the wash cycles (fills, then turns off) and won't spin in the spin cycle (drains, door locked lamp lights, then turns off). I thought the problem was with the motor, so I called a Maytag repair guy since the motor is still under warranty. The guy wanted $475 to replace the main control board and the wax motor. I decided I could order the parts myself and save over $200. I then discovered that my control board had the burnt (only slightly) R11 resistor. So I replaced R11 and Q6, along with the wax motor. I still have the same problem.

Latest tests:
I started the washer in spin mode, and watched the wax motor extend to close the door locked switch, then the spin enable switch. I even verified that the P3-7 changed from 0 VDC to 24 VDC once the wax motor was fully extended, but still the washer stops soon after the wax motor has fully extended.

I decided to try the drive system check and got down to the step where I start in the spin cycle, but the drum never spins. I assume that with JP4 disconnected that the motor should go into drive system check mode and start spinning almost immediately when JP4 is disconnected. I checked the fuse on the motor control board and it had good continuity. None of the mosfets look burned. I'm reluctant to remove the connector from the motor to probe the windings, because I'm afraid I'll 1) either break the connector getting it off, 2) wind up pushing a pin into the motor, thus damaging it, while reconnecting or 3) not be able to probe the windings because most of the motor is blocked from view at the front (and probably do 1 and/or 2 in the process).

What to do next???

Should I go ahead and order a new control board (just in case)? However, I feel that my drive system test results point to possible bad motor controller board or bad motor.

My motor is still covered by the 7 year warranty. Does anyone know if that covers the motor control board too, since you can't replace one without the other since it's all one part now?

[Jake]

These Maytag's have a new motor conversion kit that includes the motor and motor control board.

Here is the one for your model:
Motor/control conversion kit, Neptune washer

Getting the main control board and wax motor is the best solution as well:
Machine control board

Wax Motor

Jake

[bosshogg]

Jake,

I've learned about the new motor kit on some of the other threads. I've already replaced the wax motor, and I believe the control board has been fixed.

I guess I wanted to make sure my understanding of the drive system test was correct, before I attempted to replace the motor. I believe that the diagnostic mode of the motor control board is activated when JP4 is disconnected and the machine is started (shouldn't matter what cycle, as long as the on lamp is lit, the motor control board gets 120V). Since my machine does nothing when JP4 is disconnected and it's powered on, and I've verified 120V at the L and N terminals on the motor control. The fuse doesn't appear to be blown, and it passes a continuity check. None of the MOSFETS appear to be burnt. I've been unable to remove the 6 wire connector on the motor to check the three sets of windings.

I believe this machine was damaged while running during a thunderstorm from a power surge or brown out. Would a power surge or brown out damage the windings of the motor, or the motor control board? I'm just not seeing evidence of damage on the motor control board.

Any hints on removing the 6 pin connector from the motor?

My machine is still covered by the 10yr warranty on the motor, but Maytag says that only covers the motor, not the motor control, even though you can't replace one without the other....

[Jake]

The motor connector should just un-snap to remove it.

As for the 10 yr. warranty on the motor, it has to come with the motor controller board since its a motor kit assembly, so they shouldn't charge you for the motor controller. Talk to customer relations at Maytag.

Jake

[bosshogg]

So, I finally got the 6 pin connector off the back of the motor. It took a lot of effort to finally get it off. At the same time I removed the motor control board to have a better look for possible damage. I discovered that two of the resistors (r24 and r25) were burnt. They're located near the B+ phase wire.
All three windings measured 1.8 ohms, so I guess the motor is ok, and the board is toast.

I believe since the motor control board is toast that Maytag won't cover the motor/motor control board combo replacement as part of the 10yr motor warranty. At least that's what the customer service people are telling me. I guess only if one of the windings shorts or has an open condition, then they'll cover the motor replacement as part of the warranty.

[Jake]

Yes, but if you order the new motor control board, it will be the upgraded board that only works with the upgraded motor.

Jake