Thread: Montgomery Ward Gas Range: Ignitor Or Valve?

Hi Bob,

You will need a new oven igniter, I need the model# of your range, click here to locate it.

Jake

Originally Posted by Jake

Hi Bob,

You will need a new oven igniter, I need the model# of your range, click here to locate it.

Jake

Thanks, Jake

I'll have to locate that. How do you tell it's the igniter and not the valve?

bob

Jeff explains it here:
You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
Courtsey of http://www.applianceaid.com/gas.html#glow

Jake

Thanks, Jake

That's some great info. I do have an amprobe, etc. I work on pool/spa equip.

If I could generate the proper voltage across the valve terminal, could I test the valve since I already have it out of the oven?

thx

bob

BTW, How the heck do you get the broiler door removed? What a pain working around that

bob

No Bob, the ignitor has to be connected into the oven to test amps.

I need your model# to assist you with the broiler door.

Jake

Jake, I'm helping a friend and will have to check. All I found was a long number on the schematic when I looked.


thx

bob

Ok Bob, thats fine.

Jake

Hi Jake,

My friend sent me these numbers:

191T122F340
2445-80
PN560T590P05

Do any of those make sense?