Thread: Kenmore 44082 Front Load Washer

To follow up, I replaced the door lock assembly and that fixed the problem.

Thanks scott for letting us know what fixed it.

Here's the door lock assembly for your model, in case others need to order it as well:
The manufacturer has replaced part number 131763245 with this item, part number 131763202



Jake

I followed the directions in this forum and managed to fix my washer. I measure the resistance of the PTC and it was 2250 ohms. Not shorted and not open, but it was higher than the 1500 or so specified. I bought a new door switch and that one measured 1250 ohms. Anyway, I removed the top cover and replaced the switch in about 5 min. The washer runs fine now.

Thanks for posting this information. It saved a service call.

Excellent, good job.

Jake

Same fix for me.

Kenmore 417-44252500 (made by Frigidaire apparently)

During spin cycle, drain pump was working, but there was no high speed spin.

Ran diagnostics. Everything worked including fast spin. (Fast spin only worked in diagnostics.)

Checked last error code, got E47 which is "Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open during spin, refer to Test (9)."

Performed Test (9), which consists of unplugging unit, removing the door latch switch and measuring the resistance of the PTC.
It was ~1500 Ohms, thus very clearly indicating a defective control board, according to the Washer Tech Data Sheet (an open or shorted circuit would have indicated the door latch switch was defective).

HOWEVER, after some Googling, I haven't found anyone online for whom replacing the control board fixed the problem! I found that with these symptoms (high spin working only in diagnostic mode) it's "almost always" the door latch but supposedly still COULD be the (motor) control board (part # 134409900). Yet I found not a single actual report of it's having been the control board.

So with the Tech Data Sheet strongly saying one thing but no evidence to be found online in support, I remained hesitant until I found this post (thanks for posting!) where even after passing the 1500 Ohm test, the fix still involved replacing the door lock assembly.

I got a door latch switch (part # 131763202) that was in stock nearby, and it worked.

By the way, this might be useful:

Kenmore 417-44252500 Tech Data Sheet

To remove the door latch, you don't even have to move the washer. Use a pair of needle-nose plyers to remove the spring/wire band that holds the door gasket in place, pull a bit of the gasket out of the way near the latch, remove the two screws (save them, they're not included with the replacement part), and unplug the three wiring connectors.

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To check last error code without entering diagnostic mode, turn on the machine by pushing any button, wait 5 seconds, press and hold simultaneously both Start and Pause/Cancel. After a few seconds, last error code will be signalled until buttons are released. Note that signalling of the first digit (by the Lock, Wash, Rinse, and Final Spin LEDs and audible beep) may overlap the signalling of the second digit (by the Start LED).

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To enter Diagnostic mode, turn knob to Drain/Spin, then press Pause/Cancel to turn off the LEDs, then within 5 seconds press and hold simultaneously both the Option and Pause/Cancel buttons until the LEDs begin sequentially chasing.
In diagnostic mode, when knob is set to:
...Drain/Spin, LEDs chase sequentially, and pressing a button will light all LEDs in that cluster
…Rinse/Spin, hot water should enter through detergent compartment
…Soak, cold water should enter the bleach compartment
…Wool, cold water should enter the softner compartment
…Sport, door should lock
…Heavy, door should unlock
…Normal, washer should fill and tumble
…PermPress, washer should fill and spin (leak test)
…Quick, door lock, drain pump and high speed spin (DANGER, door only remains locked in this mode of diagnostics, and may be opened while drum is still spinning after performing this diagnostic!)
…Delicate, last error code will be signalled