I have read numerous posts about different problems others have had with 110 model dryers, but I would still love to run this up the flagpole for your input. I think I need a new control panel/assembly, but after reading post after post it gets hard to keep all the info straight when this is not my paying job!

Anyway, I have a Kenmore Elite Gas Dryer with “Even Heat” Model number 110.70972990. We've had the following intermittent problems for the past year or so:

• The heat does not come on at all (I’ll restart the cycle, or maybe use the dryer the next day and it then works fine again).

• Sometimes while using the Even Heat setting, the clothes will still be wet (guessing this is when the heat doesn’t come on and the machine just gives up and stops tumbling)

• I’ll set the Timed Dry function for a long period, like 60 minutes, but after passing by the dryer, say 10 minutes later it’s at 0 and turned off

• Sometimes it won’t tumble even after hitting the “Start” button; in these cases, I usually just open the door, close it and hit start again and it seems to work.

Right now, the heat is not coming on at all (all else is working fine). The “Moisture Monitor” lights do seem to accurately sense the clothes as “wet” and I’ve been running a large load of pajamas with the air (no heat), just so the clothes don’t get moldy in there and they are now up to “Damp” (after 2 days of tumbling).

This problem started yesterday and I was hoping it would “fix” itself by today as it has other times, but nothing. I think our luck has run out.

So, do you think I need to change the Even Heat Control Assembly? I did manage to open up the Console panel at top and get the Tech Sheet. I am a “do-it-your-selfer” BUT I’ve never attempted to fix an appliance before. And again, I read some posts where they changed with control assembly and still had problems -- but yowza after reading post after post, it gets confusing keeping all the problems and possible solutions straight!

Attaching pix of the inside, as you can see nothing looks "burnt", as far as I can tell.

Thanks!
91030Mom

Attached Thumbnails

     

Hi 91030Mom,

Its looks like were those 3 resisters are in the bottom right of your first pic looks burned about them, I would say a new control board would fix you up.

Here's the one for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 8546223



Don't worry, if you order this control board from here and it doesn't fix the problem, you have 30 days to return it for a full refund.

Jake

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So, not wanting to wait 7 days for the part by ordering on line, we purchased the part at a local appliance parts warehouse. I managed to replace the board and I am now testing it, but it appears that the new control board DID NOT solve the problem!

The start button works fine, it tumbles fine, but no heat!

What else could it be?

91030Mom

Check the thermal fuse for continuity its #59 here:
http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...0219-00003.png

From www.applianceaid.com
remove the bottom panel There are two clips to be pressed in about 4 inches in from the side at the top of the panel. Press on these clips, pull out on the panel and lift it off a couple clips it mounts on.

Then take off the duct assembly#45 in that diagram by removing the 2 screws#2. Then you can see your white thermal fuse#59 on the blower housing.

This tells about testing parts with an ohm meter:
http://www.applianceaid.com/test_with_ohmmeter.html
Read#4 and if you don't have an ohm meter read "But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter...."

Make sure your dryer is unplugged or the breaker turned off first before doing all this.

Jake

I went out and purchased a continuity tester at my hardware store, came home managed to get the door off the bottom, unplugged the dryer and tested both the Thermal Fuse and the Thermistor. According to this tester (with the light bulb), neither showed continuity (light didn't come on with either -- I did other tests to make sure I was using the instrument correctly and it did turn on when I tested the Flame Sensor and other things around the house).

However, I also ran the Thermal Fuse Test in the tech sheet (Timed Dry, Temp=High, WG=OFF, Signal =LOUD, door=Closed), according to the test if the dryer beeps 3 times the thermistor is bad. But when I ran this test, I didn't not get three beeps, the dryer just ran and ran.

So my questions now are these:

1. Are the Thermal Fuse and the Thermistor bad according to my $5 Continuity tester, or not bad according to the test on the tech sheet?

2. If both the Thermal Fuse and the Thermistor are bad, is replacing them a do-it-yourself job? They are behind a large black thing, I managed to get to them for testing, but I don't know if I could replace them with the "thing" (?) in the way, or if that would have to be removed as well. Yowza.

3. If I somehow manage to replace both the Thermal Fuse and the Thermistor, would you still recommend using the new control board, or can I used the "old" one and try reselling the new one somehow? Or would using the old one cause the Thermal Fuse and the Thermistor to break again? In other words, which came first the chicken or the egg?

Attaching pix for completeness and posterity (future readers).

Thanks,
91030Mom

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Its your thermal fuse thats bad, you can't do a continuity check on thermistor's. Testing your thermistor as your tech. said to do, proves that its fine since it didn't beep 3 times.

Here's the thermal fuse for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 3390719



Yes, I think you still needed the control board, since you were saying it wasn't coming on all the time, and now it is. So I believe you had 2 problems.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

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Thanks, one important part was is changing it a do-it-yourself thing? Does that black thing need to come out first, or can it be done by squeezing in behing it?

Thanks,
91030Mom

I got the fuse out, hooray! I found a socket thing that got the screws out. I'll go out and get the new fuse tomorrow.

Last question, do you think I'm getting to the root cause of my problems, or are all these consequences of a deeper issue? I would hate to replace the board and the fuse, only to have both go out again in 3 months because I didn't get to the underlying problem.

Your thoughts?

Thanks again,
91030Mom

Good Question, the main reason the thermal fuse blows is air flow restrictions in your exhaust hose that goes to the outside of your home, lint build-up over the years effects the air flow, also go outside and check your dryer vent, that can clog up too.

The control board has been just going out for no reason at all on lots of dryers, but the new ones have been upgraded and should last a long time.

Good job getting that fuse out.

Let us know how it goes when you get the new one in.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

So I brought home the new fuse, vacuumed out the inside of the lower part really well, and also vacuumed the vent hose pretty well.

I installed the new fuse (with the old board) and plugged it in.....and NOTHING happened, it wouldn't turn on at all. I then put the new board in and again, and hit the Start button, this time it beeped three times but didn't start. I hit start again and zilch, not even the beeps this time.

I came in the house and called the suicide prevention hotline and when I came down from the ledge I moved the dial to Timed Dry and low-and-behold the sucker started working. I have no idea why. Now I have it on Even Heat and it seems to be working, hallelujah, PTL.

Any idea why the strange start? I hope it's not a bad omen.

Well, just to put you on a cliff hanger, I came in and fixed myself some lunch and put some xmas music on when, I f’ing kid you not, the Denon amp shut off and WILL NOT COME BACK ON.

Now where was that hotline number again?

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Tune in next week, when the trash compactor and the dishwasher collude against 91030Mom, will she banish all home appliances to the recycling bin, opting to beat her clothes on a rock and using paper plates? Or will she give up and purchase a after-market home warranty program? Stay tuned.....

91030Mom