This unit is a front load gas dryer (stackable) with a single panel front (Sears Kenmore Dryer # 417.93042202). The dryer seems to turn on and run ok, but just doesn’t heat up. I’ve read a few of the postings that seem to have similar problems as mine, but for different models. I have very little spare time with OT at work and two little kids so I was happy to find this website hoping that it will make it much easier for me to fix the problem. As other parents know, a working dryer with kids is a necessity!
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Could this problem be just a thermal fuse or the heating coils (or elements) gone bad? I don’t have my dryer instructions so I’m not sure how to access the guts of the machine (remove panels) to check on ohms readings etc. Could you tell me how to access the parts I need to check and/or possibly replace? Will I need to access the back panel of the unit?…I just stacked my washer/dryer units a few months ago and might have to un-stack them if the back panel needs to be removed. I'm guessing new heating coils?....

Hi,

This link will tell & show you how to take your dryer apart:
http://www.applianceaid.com/wwf-howto.html

The thermal fuse makes the dryer act completely dead and it wouldn't run at all if that was bad on your model.

So basically its either a thermostat thats bad, or the igniter, or the gas coils. Having a volt/ohm meter is a must to diagnose it properly. Radio Shack has cheap ones you can get.

Here's a page that will show you what to test, when it runs but doesn't;t heat:
http://www.applianceaid.com/gas_dryer.html#noheat

Jake

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Jake,
Last night I went and opened up my dryer. I found that there was a heavy dose of lint buildup in the "blower/fan flywheel". I'm not sure what it's called, but it looks like a gear with the teeth inverted (on the inside of the gear). I think this "flywheel" is used to blow the hot air into the drum? Anyways, I also tried doing all checks that you referenced me to and they all seemed ok, with the exception that I had problems locating the high temp thermistat. Could you help me locate that and maybe the part number? I couldn't find that on all the links that the website sent me to.

After vacuuming out all the lint from the entire dryer, I tested the igniter and the gas line to see if it turned on and blew hot air. The igniter did light and the gas did turn on (coils look ok then I guess), so I decided to just close the dryer up and see if it would work. So far it is working, but will check for intermittent failure. Do you think the heavy lint in the "flywheel" could have been the culprit or do you think it goes deeper than that? Thanks.

Yes, it sounds like you found the problem, heavy lint in the blower wheel will cause the issue you had. The blower wheel circulates the hot air through the dryer, then out the back in your exhaust hose to the outside.

Your high-limit thermostat(safety thermostat) is #33 here:
http://content.searspartsdirect.com/...5516-00001.png

Manufacturer part#5308015399 is RepairClinic item#642067


But that should be fine, if it was out it wouldn't even heat at all period.

Jake

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Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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An excessively linted dryer, whether the excessive lint is in the external exhaust vent system or inside of the machine, will restrict air flow. Once the machine reaches to high of an internal temp, the high limit safety device will shut off the burner. Which can happen rather quickly.

You may have fixed that condition by cleaning out the blower squirrel cage fan and the area around it. Which explains why the dryer now works ok. If the dryer keeps working ok as it is now, could have been the lint build up causing the original problem. Time and usage will tell....

The wife said the dryer quit heating today, so it may not have been just a heavy lint problem. I'm going to go home tonight and troubleshoot again, but not sure what I'll be able to find. If anyone has any other ideas why the heat is on and off again, I'm open ears!

Jake and Appliance Tech 2,
Today I went back and re-checked the resistance readings with the ohm tester and still got small positive values (which means a closed loop so it's working) on all the parts that were suggested to check. No infinity or error type readings (which would tell me I have an open loop, right?). I also found a little more lint balls hidden when I removed the lint trap grate that holds the lint trap. The lint trap was scrubbed clean too.

As you said, it probably isn't the high-limit thermostat because I do still get some heat for a short time.

I opened the front panel and had to support it by hand to allow the wiring to stay connected and this let me verify again that the igniter did fire up and the gas ignited, but when I restarted the dryer again with the front panel on again, it would heat for a short time (~5min?) and then the heat would turn off again. It doesn't seem as if the exhaust flow is restricted now so this puts me at a loss on what to do next except pay to have a service person come out. Any ideas what I might do next?

Jake,
So I ran another test....I let the dryer run for 10 minutes or so (it was not heating during this time) to make sure it wasn't a "cold" start. I stopped it, then removed the front panel again and tried to start it so I could see if the igniter lit and glowed and if the gas would fire up and burn. The igniter did light up, but the gas did not fire up and burn...then the igniter turned off.

Could this be the gas coils? I found another thread on your site that had similar issues to mine and it was the gas coils that needed to be replaced....but I get a small positive reading on the ohm tester on my gas coils so I assumed the coils were ok. Could the coils still be malfunctioning even though there is a closed loop? Help!

Yes, the gas coils can read good, but the solenoids can still stick intermittently, that sounds like whats happening with yours.

Here's the gas coil kit for your model you can order:
Gas valve solenoid coil kit, both 2 and 3 wire coil in kit


Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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I'm leaving town for 2 1/2 weeks so I won't be able to receive my order before leaving so I'll order this while on vacation and attempt to install the coils and get the dryer working again in about 3 weeks. I'll be back then to let you know if the problem is resolved. Until then, if anyone has anymore ideas or info, please post!