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#1
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When looking under the hood of a Kenmore range(911.93712020) I discovered the terminal block below. Scary stuff!
So I bought a replacement terminal block at Home Depot(see packaging below). But now after installing the new terminal block, the burner element doesn't heat. I'm stumped and while I'm pretty handy, I don't know much about ranges. Something that seemed strange: the wires that lead to the new terminal block have voltage running through even though the switch is set to off (I measured this with one of those voltage pens meant for wall outlet). The other 3 burners show no voltage when they're set to "off". I'd welcome any advice or input. Thanks. |
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#2
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Hi,
Sounds like the burner switch is bad. If you have another burner the same size on that stove you could plug that burner into one that you know works just to test the burner. |
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#3
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Which burner is it, the large or small one? RF LF RR LR?
Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#4
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__________________
SERVICE TECHNICIAN: BEEHIVE APPLIANCE....... 1985-1988 SERVICE TECHNICIAN: HANSEN REFRIGERATION. 1988-1998 OWNER/SERV TECH: RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR...1998-2001 SERVICE MANAGER:Used Appliance store..... 2004-PRESENT ONLINE SERV TECH: ApplianceBlog.com ApplianceJunk.com LINCOLN TECHNICAL INSTITUTE:..................... 1977-1979 CERTIFIED TYPE 1; TYPE 2.....REFRIGERATION SERVICE E.S. |
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#5
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It's the LF small burner.
Out of curiosity, if the switch is bad and voltage is free-flowing to that burner, why isn't the burner hot? Could the bad switch have fried the burner element? If so, is there any risk of plugging that bad element into another receptacle for trouble shooting purposes? Thanks for the feedback. |
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#6
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Quote:
Quote:
The problem is your using that voltage pen. The burner uses two hot lines, 240 Vac. I would guess if you checked it with real volt meter you would find you only have 120 volts on one of the wires going to the burner. This is what triggers your voltage pen, but yet it's not the voltage you need to make the burner heat. |
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#7
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Thanks to everyone for all the input. Looks like I'll replace that switch and hope that does it. I imagine it's a pretty straight forward job.
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#8
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Ok, sounds good, let us know the outcome.
![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#9
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Replacing that switch did the trick. Thanks to all for the guidance.
For anyone else attempting the same repair, please note that the Sears Parts website has the parts listed incorrectly, indicating that WB24T10025 is the 1500w switch. I suspect that's where redbeardnmt got his info in this thread. Here's the correct listing: Infinite Switch 2600w (8"): WB24T10025 Infinite Switch 1500w (6"): WB24T10029 You can see from the photo below that part ending in 29 is the 1500w version. FYI. |
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