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#1
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My Kenmore oven (model 790.4783) will no longer heat. The broiler also will not work. This has been an intermittent problem in the past but turning off the unit at the breaker panel and turning it back on generally did the trick. The display does not indicate any error code. I checked all the settings to ensure that there is no time delay or anything like that. Is the clock/timer the likely culprit? Any help or suggestions appreciated...........
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#2
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Hi,
Quote:
Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#3
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Thanks for the speedy reply....I have a voltmeter but have not tested for voltage at the baking element. I have used a volt meter before but not for something like this. Would I simply remove one of the elements and measure at the connection after I hit the bake button?
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#4
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Ok, there should be 4 more numbers after the "3" at the end of your model#. The model# tag is located on the front bottom frame of your range after you pull your storage drawer out from the bottom.
Its very easy to check for 240 volts at your bake element, just pull your range out from the wall, Unplug your range first!, then take off the back access panel, then you will see 2 wires that connect to your lower bake element, Don't remove the bake element and Don't remove the wires to it. Just put one meter probe on one side of the bake element and the other meter probe on the other, then plug in your range, then turn your range on bake and see if your meter reads 240 volts. Becareful not to touch any other wires. Report back what you find. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#5
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Ok, here is the complete model #790.47832404. Unfortunately, I can't simply slide out my oven. It is not a part of a freestanding range. It is a built-in below an electric cooktop in my countertop. There is no plug, the oven is hardwired in a junction box near the back of the oven. Unfortunately, it is not easy to access the back of the oven. I will have to remove the cooktop for access. Any other possible way to test for voltage at the baking element before I pull out the cooktop??
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#6
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wow, not sure there is another way to do it without pulling it out.
Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#7
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After much badgering from my wife, I finally pulled the cooktop out and measured the voltage. My voltmeter was out of order so I used a simple voltage tester that I have. When I did this, the 110V light illuminated on the tester and not the 220. How is that possible? The oven worked great before and heated right up to temperature so I don't think the installer ran a 110 line to the unit instead of a 220. Even if 110 is getting to the unit, the bake element and broiler should at least heat up somewhat. After 10 minutes, the elements are not even warm to the touch. Any suggestions.
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#8
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Did you check your main voltage in from where the power hooks up to your range? If you get still get 110 volts, then the problem is in your electrical breaker/wiring from your breaker box to your range.
If you put your meter probes on the 2 outer(hot) electrical terminals it should read 240. The middle electrical terminal is neutral. I think its in your house electrical still. You will probably need to contact an electrician to come out and check your electrical to your range. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#9
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Ok, I finally got my real voltmeter up and running. I measured the voltage on the red and black hot wires into the oven. Both were around 120 volts, so there is 240 coming in. I next engaged the bake cycle and measured at the bake element connection and there was no voltage detected. Likewise, when I engaged the broiler and measured at the connection to the top broiler element, there was no voltage. So all I can conclude is there is a problem with the electronic clock/timer board (part #316418556) that distributes power to the elements when the bake/broil controls are engaged. Power is going into the board but not coming out to the bake/broiler elements. As luck would have it, this part is on back order at Sears until March. Maybe there a bunch of these boards going bad? Who knows... I think I can get the part from a local Frigidaire distributor (F-aire made the oven for Kenmore). If it works, I'll post back here......
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#10
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Ok, I have good news.
I found it here IN-STOCK: Manufacturer part number 316418556 is RepairClinic item number 1056226 Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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