Ok. my problem is that my motor spins but there is no heat. I also have an issue with my PTS switch. My motor turns whenever I close my door, even if i don't press the PTS. It will stop when the timer get to the off position. It is a new PTS switch. I have replaced the therma fuse. I checked the heating element. it has continuity. The heating element has volage present as does the thermal cut off. The thermal cut off fuse does also. I check votage on the relays. The heating relay has good 48VDC on the terminals. The motor has it on all except one that has 12VDC. also, my motor relay sparked the last time i tried to run it after changing the heater relay which i thought was my original prob. (I ran the dryer in the even heat mode when I got this spark) My question is where should I look now? It's getting expensive just replacing random parts. Is it the even heat board? Would that cause my motor to run constantly without pressing the PTS? Should I get another motor relay even though the resistance on the coil is good? Please help the clothes are piling up!!!

Hi,

Thats almost impossible that you put a new PTS(Push-to-start) switch in and it still starts on its own without you pressing the PTS. Where did you purchase the new PTS switch at?

Do an ohm test for continuity on that new PTS switch, take the wires off first of course, with the dryer unplugged. You shouldn't have any continuity on that PTS switch until you push the button on it.

Did you check the continuity on your thermal cut-off as well?

It sounds like your control board may be the issue:
Manufacturer's Number: W10116564



Jake

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I got the PTS switch at a Sears Repair store. I originally thought the switch was bad from the store, but i got a replacement and it did the same thing. I did a continuity test on it and it was open, like a should be between the terminals.

I also tested the continuity on the thermal cutoff switch. It read a short, which is correct right? I am starting the suspect the Even heat board. it's really the only thing left.

The ohms on the thermal cut-off should read 0 or 1 on your ohm meter.

Yes, its likely the control board causing this issue.

Remember only on our site can you shop with confidence as all parts ordered from our site come with a 30 day full refund even if it was installed and didn't fix it.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances