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#1
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Hey all,
I am at my Wit's end with my fridge. I have the Kenmore "Coldspot": 106.56666502 So the problem started a few months ago with the fridge getting warmer of about 40 degrees while the freezer remained at its norm. I opened the back panel, saw the block of ice and thought it had to be the thermostat controller, so I replaced that. The good news is, I see light frost on the top portion of the coils, but as you proceed lower it builds up which is a lot better than what it used to be. The only problem is, the fridge is TOP portion is warm, but the lower portion is 30 degrees.I have been reading quite a bit on this forum and it seems like the likely answer is the damper. At one point, I too heard the clicks then it all stopped. The odd thing is, when the freezer door is open, you can hear the fan, the air starts flowing through the damper. BUT, if you close the freezer door and you keep open the fridge side, the freezer air slows down to almost nothing at all. So I guess my question is : 1. Can someone confirm what this problem is ? 2. While I can replace the thermostat controller, how hard is it to replace the damper (electronically that is) |
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#2
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Hi,
Here's a service bulletin I found for this issue: http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service...LE/8178611.pdf Check your Return Air Vent Grille in Fig. 1 first for ice clogs, it just unsnaps off, and look at Fig. 7 to see if yours has that gap in it. Here's the diffuser for your model you can order: Manufacturer's Number: 2216112 Your diffuser is #12 here: http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/P0203369-00002.png If you plan on doing it yourself: Just remove that side panel #17 then remove#16 Then you have to push-in on the 4 clips from the freezer side to remove it. You may have to remove the ice maker and the air tunnel to get to it. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#3
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Yup, that vent was iced up at one point, I defrosted it though. Still the same issue with the top.
Do you think there is another problem with the fact that it ices up in the first place ? |
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#4
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Well, other than the service bulletin I posted above, I'm not sure whats causing to freeze.
If when you open the freezer door and put your hand in front of your top vent diffuser inside your refrigerator section and you feel plenty of cold air coming out and you close the freezer door and the air flow from the diffuser is hardly coming out, that still means you have ice blockage in that return vent tunnel where it goes to the bottom of your freezer, I'd flush all that out with hot water down the return vent tunnel and use a hair dryer as well, to make sure all the ice is out. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#5
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Hi Gotmul800 and Jake,
I have a Kenmore 106.56532400 S# SS2641847 and have the same issue except that the two times I pulled the back panel inside the freezer I saw no ice just a small amount of frost on the lower 1/4 of the evap coils. Looked normal. I have poured about a 2 cups of hot water down the air return tunnels and still do not have adequate air flow when the freezer door is shut. The air diffuser assembly is bad as it will not open on its own and I have jammed it open until I can buy a new one. I will try the hair dryer tonight to see if maybe there is a big block of ice there that water is just running through. Have you seen that before? Will water just run down a small channel in the one of the three air return tunnels and even though water passes air can not pass through there due to small diameter of hole? I poured water down each of the separate tunnels and only saw small dime and penny sized ice pieces fall down. Before the fridge started to get warm the bottom drawer on the left/air return side was freezing my veggies solid. Does that indicate that there was a large ice blockage in the air return tunnel? The veggies are not freezing anymore but that might be because the ambient temps are too high. Anything else I'm missing? What should my next step be? Thanks, Sean |
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#6
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Hi Sean,
Yes, I've been out on service calls and seen this happen a few times, but this year it seems to be happening to everyone now, very odd! In the past week or so we've received tons of posts for this issue, I'm not sure why, unless there is a definite defect now in these models, The Kenmore 106 models are made by Whirlpool. Its getting so bad, I may need to contact Whirlpool directly to have them come read all these threads now to see if they can find out whats going on and prepare a fix for this. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#7
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Hi Jake,
Since there was only a small bit of frost on the bottom lower right of the evap coils, could that be blocking the air flow up to the piece that funnels air to the fridge diffuser? The ice maker is working fine and there is steady current of air flowing into the ice maker with freezer door open. So that tells me that the top section of this system is free of obstruction. I'll try the hair dryer into the return vent tonight to see if I can't melt/break up a much larger obstruction but since the bottom veg/meat drawer in the fridge is not frozen I can't see how there could still be ice in there. If there is no ice would this be classified as a sealed system failure, i.e. covered under warranty? Thanks, Sean |
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#8
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Quote:
Quote:
Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#9
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My 1 1/2 year old Kenmore ColdSpot 106.57912700 is doing exactly the same thing.
The fridge section was getting warmer and warmer on the top section and freezing the vegies while the freezer section stayed within temp range and ice maker works great. I had some ice in the top damper - melted that out. I pored hot water and ran a heat gun through the lower vent and only got small amounts of ice out. It seems to be clear now. I am having to block the upper damper open with a pencil so I guess I need to order a new one of those. I had some front and a small amount of ice build up on the coils. Not enough to block any air flow. The door gaskets look to be in perfect shape - the fridge is just over 1 year old and out of warranty. I did NOT buy the extended warranty. I read the service bulletin above and cant find any other air or water leaks that might be letting moist air inside. I wish you would contact whirlpool and see if this is a wide spread thing. |
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#10
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Quote:
Your model uses this diffuser: Manufacturer's Number: 2209753 We will add you to the list. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Jake For This Useful Post: | ||
LarryD (August 5th, 2009) | ||
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