Hello,

I have the a 73932 Kenmore that is not heating. I have replaced the High Limit Thermostat thinking that was the problem. Turned out it was not.

I have checked the Thermistor and it appears to be within limits at room temp. That is all can check at this time as I get no flame to generate any heat. I checked the Thermal Fuse. I get continuity there as well.

I have heard and read stories that the brain could be bad, I pulled the control board and I do not see any physical damage or anything that might cause concern.

I have noticed that the Gas Coil Valve is slightly beyond tolerance and I am wondering if that would be causing the issue. Pin 4 and 5 are supposed to be 1220 ohm with a +/- of 50. I got 1305. Is this far enough to cause it to not fire? Also, does this coil control the igniter because that does not glow either.

I have a tech sheet and do not see a part number for the coils. Are they not a DIY part?

Thanks in advance.

PS. I have been in my house for a year and will probably get my 5 bucks worth from this site. After looking around, I could learn something here.

Hi,

Does the gas flame come on at all? or nothing? Do you notice if the igniter is glowing red when you start it?

Did you test everything per this help link here:
http://www.applianceaid.com/gas_dryer.html#noheat

Your volt meter should have 120 volts at your igniter when its on, and the igniter isn't glowing red, then thats the bad part.

Here's the igniter assembly for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 279311

279311

Jake

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It used to come on. Before I replaced the high limit thermostat the flame would kick on then off again right away. I assumed that the HLT was bad so I replaced it. The new one worked, so I re-assembled everything and my g/f ran one load through and it died again.

I put the old HLT back on and removed it from the mount so it would not get warm. Turned on the dryer and the igniter never glowed. I tried the new HLT and it still does not work.

Not anymore. It did at first and now I get nothing. I used the Service Tech Sheet to test all the components. The sheet showed nothing for testing the igniter.

This link seems to point to the igniter. I will run through it.

Makes sense. I will see if I am getting voltage there. If I need to back track from there where would I go? I am looking at the schematic for the heater strip circuit, the igniter seems to be connected with the centrifugal switch, what is that? Would that be an issue?

Thanks

The centrifugal switch on your motor.

Unfortunately Sears doesn't provide wiring diagrams online for me to view it.

Yes, test for 120 volts at your igniter and me know what you find.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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Well, I went to test the igniter. Before I tested it I figured I would try to see if everything works.

Low and behold, there was a couple loud clicks and the igniter clicked on. I assembled everything and it ran, heated up to about 120-140 degrees and kicked off. Then it never ever turned back on again. I ran the dryer for about 20 minutes and no heat. I pulled the thermistor out and cleaned it, checked it and everything seemed to be in order.

At this point I am lost. I don't have a real good way to test the thermistor because I don't know what temp it is when I check the resistance. is there a way to bypass this to make sure it is not it? I really don't have alot of patients to wait for a new one to come in to know if that was the problem or not.

Ok,

I know whats wrong now, its your gas coils.

Here's the gas coil kit for your model you can order:
Part#694540
Gas valve solenoid coil kit, 2 and 3 wire, new style
(The manufacturer has replaced part number 694540 with this item, part number 279834.)
279834

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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That is a cheap part. I will order them up and give it a shot.

Is there any gas issues I need to worry about or do I just swap them out?

Nope just swap them out, unplug your dryer first of course.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Thanks...I will update in a couple days. I decided to expedite the part. I figure what I pay in that is what my g/f would pay at the laundromat and I don't have to listen to her complain.

Ok, sounds good, let us know how it goes.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances