Hi - first post, but I think I'm going to get a lot of good use out of this site.

We have a 1991 Kenmore dryer - I'm sorry, I can't find the specific model number - but I think I might have the problem pinned down. Recently it stopped heating, although the drum continues to turn. I checked the fuse outside, it was fine. I'm not afraid to open things up and take a look inside, so that's what we did with the dryer.

When we did that, we found a corroded wire (due to heat, possibly?) that was connected to a "thermal cutoff". Here is a link to a picture of the part (#3389946):

Marks-Parts.com: Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cut-off (thermal fuse), FSP 3389946 USED

One of the contacts (on the corroded side) was nearly broken off. I tested this with a continuity tester, NOTHING. I'm assuming this is the part that needs to be replaced, right?

So, when I went shopping for this exact part, I found several places that had it at one time - but are now sold out. Several places listed a "compatible" part which is not expensive and I can even get locally pretty cheap: #279769

https://appliancezone.net/ShowProduc...ookieSupport=1

Is it possible for me to replace the old part #3389946 with the 350-degree thermal cutoff from part #279769? How should I mount it in my dryer if so?

Thanks so much! I appreciate any help available... we're so tired of driving baskets of heavy, wet clothing to the laundromat to dry...

Yes, Actually part#3389946 has changed to part#279769:
Manufacturer's Number: 279769

279769

It should mount at the same exact place as your existing one.

Jake

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Thanks - I'll do that.

Ok, sounds good.

Keep us posted.

Jake

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Hi, Jake - I just want to be absolutely sure I'm understanding correctly here - the plate which houses the original part (3389946) is very different from the plate which houses the replacement part (279769), and it does not appear that I can install the new part without drilling a couple mounting holes in the dryer frame (which held the original part) as well as the new part mount. The old part mounted over a hole (about 1.5" diameter). I can do this, but just wanted to be sure I will be doing this correctly - I see no easy way to remove the old cutoff from its plate, and no easy way to pull the new cutoff from the replacement plate. The only way I see that I can do this will be to drill a couple new mounting holes (near the old spot) and mount the replacement cutoff as close to the original spot as I possibly can. Correct?

Thanks so much for your help with this, I really appreciate it.

Ok Catman,

I guess I don't understand, can you take a photo of where the old thermal cut-off mounted on your heating element housing and upload it here?

I've changed many on these and never had to drill screw holes.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Okay, I just took a couple pics - I hope these illustrate the question a little better.



This is a closeup, I am holding the old thermal cutoff plate in front of the hole over which it was mounted. (you can see the old wires - the one in front of my hand was the corroded one, you can see how it was discolored; I will cut that a little shorter and reattach a new lug)



This is a little wider shot, essentially the same thing - to give you a better feel for where it is. Basically, the screw holes on the old thermal cutoff plate are pretty far apart - I'm not sure that the replacement part will be able to reach. Maybe it will - it just looks like the new cutoff is a lot smaller than the old one.

I hope these help - if you need a more detailed photo just let me know and I'll get that to you.

Thanks so much, Jake - I really appreciate your help!

Barry

Thanks Berry,

Yes, it looks like the new one should mount in the same as far as the screw holes go. If not, just mount the top screw in the top hole the new one, and don't worry about putting a screw in the bottom hole.

Oh wait, I see now, see the little metal clip end extension on the new thermal cut-off(left one in the photo), that little extension clip slips in the bottom hole of the heater housing, then the top screw hole mounts in the top screw hole of the original one on the heater housing:


Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Fantastic! Okay, that's what I needed to know - that was it. I had to order the part after all, should be here in a couple days. I've already re-crimped new connectors onto the dryer wires, just waiting on the cutoff. I'll let you know how it goes - thanks so much!

Also - what do you think caused this in the first place? I'm assuming that the cutoff blew because the temperature reached the 350 degree limit - I checked the exhaust vent and it was clear, as well as the hose. I just want to make sure that I don't have to do this again in a few days... thanks!

The main reason the thermal cut-off goes out is air flow restrictions in your exhaust hose that goes to the outside of your home.

If your sure your exhaust vent is clean and clear and not kinked either, then it shouldn't go bad anymore.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances