We have a Kenmore model 665 that is approx 3-4 years old. Model # 66516939000, Serial # FL1903434. The motor, pump and inlet valve were replaced 2/05 under a service agreement. Seemed to work OK for awhile, now more problems.

When filling with hotwater, there is a loud noise coming from the dishwasher/undersink area and the hotwater pipes under the sink are vibrating (hammering). We had the hotwater shutoff valve replaced thinking a washer might be vibrating/restricting water flow.....no help. The plumber suggested it is probably the inlet valve, however, it appears this was replaced in February (receipt lists "sub valve-in" part number 22 665 8531669 on the receipt).

I visited with Sears and they indicated repair parts are warrantied for only 30 days ( we let the service agreement lapse...reasoning, heck, didn't they just replace everything?)

I should also mention that we had a new sink and faucet put in when the dishwasher was about 1.5 years old. I think he may have reconfigured the pipes a little, added new hot/cold water line shut off valves, etc. Seems like problems starting happening shortly thereafter, but the plumber I just had out didn't notice anything unusual.

Can anybody shed light on what's going on? I talked to an independent repair shop and they guessed it was the inlet valve. They also said they would not warranty any work on a Kenmore. We like the washer, but are sick of throwing money at this.

Thanks in advance for any help.
John

Yup, its definitely your water inlet valve, don't know why it would start doing it this soon after it was replaced.

Here is the part you need:
Water inlet valve assembly

Jake

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Thanks for the reply Jake....I have a couple of newbie follow-up questions.

The repair shop I visited with mentioned that a solinoid can become clogged and that's what usually causes the valve to fail. I don't have a clue how the valve works...but it made me think. When we had our kitchen remodeled, they left the dishwasher in place during cabinet, contertop and tile work. Lots of sanding, etc.

Assuming clogs are the cause of failure, are they on the inside or can they be caused by construction debris being sucked into some part of the valve?
Should the washer be pulled out and cleaned behind/under to prevent future problems?

If on the inside, would this be caused by something like an old washer part passing thru the supply line?

Would it be wise to replace the supply line from the new shut off valve my plumber installed on into the water inlet valve?

I'm guessing it wouldn't be smart to try the valve replacement on my own (I was told it would come with instructions....) or is this a simple do it yourself job?

Thanks,
John

These are very good questions which i don't have a good answer for.

As far as changing the inlet valve, its pretty easy, just turn off the water, undo the water line, brass elbow, electrical connector, and the small rubber hose on the back of the inlet valve. then use a threading compound on the elbow threads and reconnect everything.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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I visited with another repair shop...talked with one of their oldtimers. He indicated that debris from the remodel shouldn't be any problem as far as the inlet valve is concerned. He asked if we had excess water pressure or whether we had drained the pipes for plumbing work ( we had a least two times). He went on to say that he suspects when the water main was turned back on, that the water pressure and clearing the air in the pipes may have damaged the inlet valve. He said he tries to clear the air in the pipes when the main is turned back on at a bath tub to prevent damaging things like the inlet valve on the dishwasher. He also suggested turning off the undersink shutoff valve going to the supply line of the dishwasher if we drain the pipes in the future.

Made sense to me....anyone have any thoughts? If true, hope this helps someone else avoid this problem in the future.

John

Sounds like he knew what he was talking about.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances