Hi,

Let me start by saying that this site is a Godsend for my wife and I...Thanks to everyone who participates in such a helpful resource!

Last summer my wife and I purchased our first home and have since encountered some problems with the included dryer...I've browsed through previous threads and have some ideas, but could really use some specific help before I start tearing apart the dryer.

The dryer is a Kenmore 90 Series Gas model (110.77902791) with the following problems:

1. The dryer automatically starts when you turn the cylce knob without pushing the start button (the start button seems to serve no purpose whatsoever). However, the dryer will stop immediately if you let go of the cycle knob, unless youget it on a"magic spot", which never seems to work in the same place twice, or push the knob in until the dryer decides to run on it's own.

2. The dryer will continually run through all the cycles twice (but sometimes until you unplug it) before stopping...Works wonders on our gas bill!:P

These first two problems seem to be very sporadic, sometimes you throw the clothes in, turn the cycle knob and the dryer works fine with no fine tuning...Other times it takes a few minutes of tinkering with the knob to find the "magic spot" the dryer "demands" in order to run...And then sometimes you have to hold the cycle knob in for a few minutes to "warm it up" and then it will run on it's own. With the second problem, sometimes the dryer will run through just the set cycle and quit when it should. Both of these situations are very unpredictable when you start a load; meaning you have to know you'll be around to pull the clothes out.:X

3. Opening the door to the dryer has no effect, the drum continues turning until you unplug it or turn the cycle knob to off (the latter of which runs the risk of the dryer starting back up without any clothes in it).

From my previous experience (zero) and what I've learned from everyone's posts here, my first guesswas that the first problem may have to do with the circuit board that seems to be so prone to problems; or that the solution is in the start switch contacts or motor relay contacts being welded together (per jscl's post on Feb. 19). Both seem similar but not exactly on the money. As for the other two problems, I haven't a clue...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks SO MUCH in Advance!!

[color=darkred][size=1][b][color=darkred]HomeRepairGreenhorn wrote:

Quote:

Opening the door to the dryer has no effect, the drum continues turning until you unplug it or turn the cycle knob to off (the latter of which runs the risk of the dryer starting back up without any clothes in it).

This is the door switch sticking closed.

Standard dryer door/ washer lid switch kit, 3-wire, with hardware



Jake

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HomeRepairGreenhorn wrote:
This sounds like the Push-to-Start switch is closed stuck as well.

[align=left]Push to start switch, 2 terminal[/align]


Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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Jake,

Thanks for your quick reply and insight!

I've been doing some laundry tonight and I've discovered some things that might help explaining the situation. If the dryer is set anywhere in the "more dry-less dry" cycle and quits running, the dryer continues to send heat into the dryer without the drum circulating or the cycle knob progressing through the cycle. For a while, we heard a strange clicking noise followed by a whoosh (similar to the furnace starting) coming from our utility room and assumed it was the furnace. We had a repair man come out and service the furnace, but he found nothing mechanically wrong with it. After sitting in the room for a few minutes, my wife and I realised it was the dryer making the noise and now tonight I've discovered that it does this when it gets stuck in the "more dry" cycle. Like I said before, if you give the knob a nudge, the dryer will start, but when you take your hand away, it stops. The way it acts, it seems as if there is a loose connection somewhere in the cycle knob...Could this be the source of my frustration?

As to your advice Jake, is it possible to repair these stuck switches without replacing them? Also, having the dryer continue tumbling when you open the door isn't a big deal for me, but I'm concernedthat there may besome possible risks with leaving the door switch as it is. If I don't repair the door switch, is there any consequence other than the inconvienence of the dryer spitting clothes out at you as you unload it?

Thanks Again!

[quote]HomeRepairGreenhorn wrote:

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

HomeRepairGreenhorn wrote:

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Thanks!

Is there a generic part number for this timer? I'm trying to order another one, but I'm not sure if the item number on repair clinic's site is the same as the part number.

Thanks again!

The number on RepairClinic.com is their stock number. To find the real part number, either consult the parts booklet that came with your dryer, or go to Sears.com, click on "Parts" in the top left corner and enter your model number.

Just had a re-read of this. I once ran into this very problem, only way to stop the dryer was to pull the plug from the wall. Young tech had been out on it a couple of days previously, was totally flummoxed by the problem and requested assistance.

What I found was that on the blower housing, a quarter had found its way through and landed in such a way that it was contacting the housing and the thermal fuse. A check of the wiring diagram showed that this bypassed the door switch, PTS (push to start), timer etc. Quarter removed and all well again.

Pop the bottom panel off (putty knife to release the two clips) and check in the area of the thermal fuse (item 59). Remember to unplug the dryer first, of course.

Attached Thumbnails

 

HomeRepairGreenhorn wrote:
There aren't usually any generic replacements for parts like washer and dryer timers, electronic controls , etc. They're too specialized and too numerous (ie. each model using a different one). Such parts usually all come from the same place, the appliance manufacturer (in your case which is Whirlpool whom made your dryer for Sears) although each vendor may price it slightly differently depending on their cost of doing business.

The original part number for your timer was # 3406015 which is now replaced with Whirlpool part # 3976576. You can check what Sears is asking for it at their PartsDirect web site either by entering the model number and going thorough the parts list for your model or by just entering one or the other part number in the appropriate form field.

LINK > Sears PartsDirect

JFYI

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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