Kenmore model# 110.86574810. Here is the sequence of events-

1) Dryer quit, tested thermal fuse, fuse bad, replaced.

2) Dryer quit again after about 3 loads, tested fuse, fuse bad. Replaced fuse along with new aluminum external duct, new wall vent and all.

3) Dryer quit again after 3 loads, roomate said clothes were hotter than **** when removed from dryer, tested fuse, fuse bad. Checked blower fan, spins free. A small amount of debris at bottom of internal duct, not enough to restrict. Took a leaf blower and blew out internal duct. There is NO lint in internal or external ducts, ZILCH.

Before I waste another $12.00 on another thermal fuse, how do I test the operating t-stat, heating element, and hi-limit t-stat on element housing? Or should I just replace them all? I believe the above parts are original. I want to make ONE more trip to the appliance parts store...

HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi,

Check for a shorted to ground heating element. Check air temps at the dryers exit, it should cycle approx between 120 degrees and 160 degrees....let us know what you find/see.

Heating element with wires

jeff.

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I tested the element, it is not shorted. (With power disconnected, I checked for continuity to element cage, there is none.) Coils are intact, none broken. I have not checked the temp of the exaust air, it's the weekend and I cannot get a new fuse and other needed part until tomorrow.

Soooooooo, should I get a new cycling thermostat along with a fuse? I'll check the air temp after a new fuse, but I want a new t-stat on hand also, what else could it be?

Much thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

One more thing-

Took the cycling t-stat out to bring it to the store when I go there at lunchtime. I can shake it and I hear a rattle inside of it. Does that mean the bi-metal spring inside is broken??

Doing something wrong in the testing procedure!??!

Nope. Roundish spring plate inside oftne rattles, the plate flexes to open and or close the contacts.

jeff.

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Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.jrappliance.ca
JRAppliance

Doing something wrong in the testing procedure!??!

Element needs power to test?????

i would unhook vent and run dryer for a few loads and see what happens. make sure you have real good air comin out .(blower wheels can break , but still spin freely, too freely) after that i would get a vom meter and a temp. meter and check exit temp. (per spec) and check to see if t-stats are opening up to shut off heat as needed.

If no continuity is found across the element, it is considered open or bad....but with no breaks or such, the element should show continuity.

If all else checks ok, replace the operating thermostat and thermal fuse and test the air temps ( heat on and off ) at the dryers exit.

jeff.

__________________
http://www.applianceaid.com/
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.jrappliance.ca
JRAppliance