Well I think the motor is bad on my dryer. Tell me if you think it might be something different. The dryer simply won't start. The breaker is not tripped and I checked the voltage from the wall plug at 220, or 110 per side just like it should be. I took the cover off the dryer and checked the thermal fuses and cut-offs and they appear to be ok. I checked the dryer door switch and it works too. I then checked the start switch and it seems to be ok too. This is where I found what I think is a problem. I pulled the electric connection block cover and disconnected the lugs and checked the ohms on the cord for a short in the cord. The cord tested ok. I then took my multi-meter and placed the two leads on the the two outside lugs ( the hot lugs) I got a reading of 220 volts. I then checked one hot lug and the Ground which I thought should read 110 volts. Mine read 220 volts. I then took the meter and checked the other hot lead against the ground and got a reading of zero volts. I was thinking that both leads against the ground should read 110 volts. Well the side that was testing 220 volts has the black wire that runs from the connection block to the timer and splits off and goes to the motor. When I disconnected the timer and checked the volts it still read 220. When I disconnected the motor it went back to 110. So I'm thinking the motor is bad. Does this sound right to any of you ????

Hi,

The voltage readings do sound abit strange, I'm kinda clueless on this one.

Try these 2 links to see if they help:

Appliance Aid

Repair Help

Jake

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Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Well I put a new motor in and I still get nothing. I'm totally lost now! Could it be the timer you think?

ok here's where I'm at now. When I have the dryer motor plugged in and connected and the 220 service connected to the wall outlet and the timer off everything seems to read ok, 220 to both terminals and 110 individually. When I turn the timer on it starts reading 220 to the red side and like 40 to the black side. Turn the timer off and everything goes back to normal. I don't want to burn the motor up but I'm thinking that the timer is the only thing left and must be bad causing the voltage to go haywire??? Any help is appreciated.

The original motor was burnt and replaced today with no luck ($100). I hate to put another $80 in a timer but if I know that will fix it I'm ok with it.

I would hate to tell you the timer is causing this, so i won't. I wouldn't want you to spend $80 on a timer you wouldn't need. Seems i had one like this fool me a couple years ago, i was thinking the same thing, but it turned out to be his electrical system had a rare flaw in it, something you wouldn't see but only every 10 years.

You may need to call a appliance tech. out to verify this.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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You know I'm starting to think you may be right. I talked to a Sears tech today and he told me that he had one do the same thing and it turned out that the Refrigerator outlet in this particular house had a "floating" ground issue. Well my sister inlaw had a new dishwasher put in this past week and it might have been wired up wrong causing a similar issue? I think I'll pull the dishwasher loose and see if the Dryer kicks back into life before I buy a new timer. Thanks!

Yea, that new dishwasher install could have something to do with it, like someone might have wired it incorrectly or something along that line.

Keep us posted on the outcome.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

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Well we finally got it all figured out. It seems the installer for the dishwasher pulled a ground from the same circuit that fed the dryer and basically pulled the ground from the 220 plug causing it to have a floating ground issue. Once that was fixed everything kicked in and is back online. The motor was bad because apparently my sister in law left the dryer turned on and plugged in for a couple of days while she was contemplating calling me to come and look at it for her and the voltage was running haywire through the motor and burned it up. I guess the moral of the story is if this happens to you, unplug the dryer and turn the timer off to prevent further damage to the unit. Thanks for all the help you guys are the best!

Glad you found out what was going on!

Thanks for getting back with us to let us know the final outcome.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances