Good job fixing it. Yes, that complete assembly is a lifesaver.

Jake

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Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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I intend to buy the complete inner and outer tub assembly in order to install new bearings in my Kenmorelace 417.41042000. Are there any instructions posted showing the best order of disassembly and small tricks to make it easier? I am sure those that have changed these out many times have learned a few things along the way.


Thank you.

After researching the fridgidaire/sears/electrohome, I am finding that these things are absolute crap. The spiders are acting as sacrificial anodes and are corroding/rusting at a ridiculous rate. I have a water softener at my house, so we use even less soap than normal, always liquid, always the recommended brands. I got the same song and dance, however, I found a lucky break.

When I phoned Sears Canada for parts , I was pricing out the individual parts, drum, seals, etc, and was disgusted with the total price. I asked when the rear assembly would be....152.00. I asked if they had a complete tub assembly, the girl said yes , and the price was.......152.00

I asked her to hold it for me, drove to the parts depot (Winnipeg) and picked it up. Lo and behold, the whole tub assembly for $152.00. I followed the blog on assembly (found elsewhere in these forums, including full colour photos...thanks for the details, it worked perfectly. I should get another 3 years out of it.

http://www.applianceblog.com/washers/RearBearingV6.pdf


Sears and Fridgidaire will never get 1 dime of my business again. They did not stand behind their products, and if anything, this is a structural defect that should have been covered by a recall. I am going to post these blogs to consumer reports and consumer and corporate affiairs. My previous maytag washer lasted 22 years, and it was still working fine when I sold it. This piece of crap didn't last 3 years. What a joke.

Our Kenmore washer, model 41729042991, also sounded like a jet taking off. As per other posted messages I concluded that it was the bearing and therefore replaced the rear outer tub assembley and shocks as per Jake's instructions. Everything seemed to go well. As per another suggestion I did run it through 2 wash cycles (without clothes) out in the garage to make sure there were no leaks. All seemed fine, it sounded like a new washer. So I brought it back in the house, stacked the dyer on top put a load of wash in. As it started the wash cycle there were two loud clunks as it began to agitate and from then on it will not agitate or spin. I took all the clothes out and tried it again empty but it will only fill and drain as normal without any agitation or spins. Any suggestions ???? Thanks
Tj

Two loud clucks? Check the belt to make sure it didn't come off. Try to turn the tub with your hand both ways without clothes.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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As the machine started to agitate in one direction it clunked, and then as it reversed direction it clunked again and then it stopped. I first thought it was out of balance due to the clothes. The belt appears to be ok and the motor is not free spinning during the agitation or spin cycles. The drum turns freely in both direction. Is there somesort of electonic lock out if it was originally out balance due to the clothes or a reset to prevent it from spinning or agitating? I did disconnect the power to it for 20 minutes or so and turned it back on but that did not do any good. What do you think?
Thanks

No, theres no lock-out for unbalanced loads.

I don't know what the problem could be, it worked good before you moved it, so I assume something broke lose or came out of place during the move.

Unfortunately, you may have to take it apart again to see what might have happened.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Jake,
You were correct something did come loose. The connector to the motor was loose. I reconnected it & made sure this time it was well seated. Put things back together and presto.... it works and is quiet as well !!! I have to admit I had my doubts but things worked out well. Thanks for all your assistance.
tj

Good job finding that loose motor connector. Yes, its amazing how quiet it becomes when you change out that rear tub assembly.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Hi there:
It sounds like I have a bearing(s) going out on this unit. I phoned a local applicance sales/repair place. They listened to the noise over the phone and suggested it would be cheaper to buy a new one than fix this one. They suggested that this particular model was not "well made" and that I would do a lot better buying a Maytag Epic Z for $675 after rebates...
Can you offer an opinion on their opinion?
thx
BB