Thread: Model #110.16862502 - Good coupler, good clutch, no spin without help

I should say I was spinning the transmission manually (the motor is disconnected from the gearbox).

Turning the gearcase shaft one way will make it spin, then turning it the other way makes it agitate.

If after you turn it the direction for agitate, you have to keep turning the shaft the other way about 16 full rotations then it should start spinning.

Jake

I put everything back together and now we're back to being able to get it to spin with a little help. So I don't think it's the basket drive--wouldn't that prevent the tub from spinning at all (even manually)?

Which leaves either the transmission or the clutch. Since the clutch seems to spin without a problem and the gearcase shaft seems to hit a "dead spot" when I rotate the coupling to spin the shaft, would this point to the transmission, since it seems like it's slipping? I just don't understand why it would stop spinning the shaft so seemingly randomly--but now with a little help, it DOES spin (when the machine is fully assembled and I run a spin cycle).

I feel more confused that I was when this started!

No, its the clutch inner lining thats worn out causing this, just order the clutch.

Jake

Ordered a new clutch, installed it today--and then this happened.



Jake, if I ever meet you in person I will kiss you.

Good job, looks like you back in business.

Jake

LaLoosh:
Not sure if you are interested but I just had this same problem with mine too Series 80 model #110 15864400
I found that not the support springs. BUT the suspension spring that is at the back of the washer
on the base of the tub to the base of the frame was gone, it had rusted out. I have to order the piece and it has to come to Hawai'i so until that happens I used 3 zip ties tied together in 3 circles and it gives the needed strength to stabilize the tub but enough "give" to allow it to level the tub on all sides. It solved my problem. We did have to buy a new Kenmore however as our WHOLE chassis, frame base is totally rusted out from living by the ocean. But I will keep this one as a back up as long as I can. If you need pictures go to here There is also a leveling spring that should be there on the back drum bracket to the wall bottom support bar. Our whole bar is gone (rusted out) so it's gone so guess that is not as important as the suspension spring. It holds the whole back of the tub in place! But in the directions on YOU Tube where it shows it being replaced you can attach it to the back wall itself if you don't have the lower support bracket. Seems LOTS of people have problems with rust.
Whirlpool 21001598 Suspension Spring - AppliancePartsPros.com
My broken one on the left. New one on the right:
This actually made it so that it would not spin out. But I was able to do the same thing you did. Use my hand to manually start it. But it would not go faster and faster. Amazing how one thing can make such a difference. I was lucky as the spring was actually under the washer so I knew where to start looking for the problem. Before trying all the other things. I did however spend days and countless hours reading all about what you have already found out. Check my ideas. These springs are not the ONLY ones that can affect the ability to spin out. There are 3 other suspension springs that you can SEE easily when you take off the housing to look or tip it over as some people do. I have done both. If any of these 3 suspension springs are gone they must be replaced too. If the drum is not level and stable it will not spin properly even if all the other things are OK. This smaller one is the one there are 3 of around the tub.
Hope this helps you. It sure will save you a bunch if It's not your clutch.
Aloha Antoinette
P.S. Hope you get this info!