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Thread: freezer issue

  1. #1
    djbrett is offline Member
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    Default freezer issue

    Model Number: 596.50699001
    Brand: Sears Kenmore
    Age: 6-10 years

    I have a kenmore 596.50699001 side by side that has been having some freezer issues. ice cream will occasionally melt and then refreeze, and items seem to freezer burn much faster than they should.
    About a year ago, I replaced the condenser fan motor as the old one had frozen up. I replaced it with the recommended part number from sears (it was a universal fit whirlpool I think). When I was starting to dig into possible problems today, I noticed that the motor is directing air out the back of the freezer instead of pulling air from the back and pushing it to the front. I thought maybe I had the wires crossed, changed them around and no difference. I mounted the fan blade the other way, no difference. Does that mean it is supposed to be blowing out the back?
    I have checked the defrost timer, and it is kicking on and off (although I do not hear the bubbling or boiling). If it is a auto defrost issue, should I see frost on the internal back of the freezer, or will I only be able to see it if I remove the back wall?
    Thanks for any help. Baby on way this week and wife wants to be able to store milk in freezer.
    Brett

  2. #2
    Jake's Avatar
    Jake is offline Appliance Tech - Admin
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    Ok Brett, on this model the condenser fan is suppose to blow out the back vent grille.

    You'll need to remove the back access panel inside your freezer and check your evaporator coil for frost build-up. Also, if no frost build-up check to see if you have a thin layer of frost on ALL the coils, if not then its possibly a compressor issue.

    Jake
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    djbrett is offline Member
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    Thanks Jake. compressor is making noise like it is working. It is also hot to the touch (not sure if this is supposed to be. anything else I should be looking at when I have that panel off? Thermostats?

  4. #4
    Jake's Avatar
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    No Brett, not that back panel.

    The back access panel inside your freezer and check your evaporator coil for frost build-up. Also, if no frost build-up check to see if you have a thin layer of frost on ALL the coils.

    Jake
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  5. #5
    djbrett is offline Member
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    There was a little bit of ice on the bottom of the coils. here is the picture. freezer issue-imag0266.jpg The little bit of ice I did see was down near what I think was the heater coil(wraps around the left side of the coils and around the bottom and back up the left side). Does this, coupled with the fact that I can't hear it making that bubble/boil sound indicate a bad heater? I tried to check the resistance on it, but couldn't get the clips off easily. I couldn't see a release for them. I did have it unplugged about 20 hours ago for a spell as I was looking at the fan which could have been long enough for it to defrost. Where do I go next?
    Thanks,
    brett

  6. #6
    Jake's Avatar
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    I don't see a thin layer of frost on the coil, did you have it off when you took that panel off?

    You need to put the panel back in place loosely then run the refrigerator for at least 4 hours and then check the coil again for a thin layer of frost on all the coils, and also see if the fan above the coils is running as well.

    Then you would ohm your defrost thermostat while its frosty to get a proper reading. You should have 0-1 ohms if its working fine, if no reading at all then its bad.

    Here's the defrost thermostat for your model:
    Defrost thermostat with wire harness, clip-on, L48-33 degrees
    (The manufacturer has replaced part number 12017823 with this item, part number R0161088.)


    The defrost thermostat also controls your evaporator fan motor above your coil.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
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  7. #7
    djbrett is offline Member
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    Thanks,
    Fan above coil is definitely working, I checked that when I had the panel off. There was no thin layer of frost. There is, however, two small chunks of ice (approx. .5 cm in diameter) between the fins near the bottom. The first is exactly halfway from the sides just above the first horizontal aluminum tube. The second is five fins over below the next horizontal tube. I can only tell in the photo if I click on it and blow it up.
    It's like 110 in phoenix right now, so I will wait till the am to open it up again.
    Those larger white electrical connectors in the part diagram, how do I get those apart? Is it just pull harder, or is there a trick with squeezing a certain way to get them to release?
    Thanks again.

  8. #8
    Jake's Avatar
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    Those larger white electrical connectors in the part diagram, how do I get those apart? Is it just pull harder, or is there a trick with squeezing a certain way to get them to release?
    Just pull harder. I use needle-nose pliers to help pull them apart.

    Watch this video, if its frosty you don't need to put it in ice water:




    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
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  9. #9
    djbrett is offline Member
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    Tested for continuity. Thermostat is reading 0 ohms which is good I think. heater is reading 28.3. both the refrigerator and freezer are cooling to the tight temp, it is just occasional melting of ice cream.
    There was some frost on the coils when I opened it this am, but hardly any. The defrost timer was near the point where it naturally kicks in.
    I'm wondering if my defrost timer has slowed down slightly and is causing the evaporator coils to stay off after the ice has already melted? Is there a way to test this? Its about to kick into defrost cycle, I'll time when it kicks back on.
    Thanks

  10. #10
    djbrett is offline Member
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    The defrost timer cycled into the defrost cycle and stayed there for 32 . Is this normal?

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