Thread: No cooling at all from fridge

Hi bobl,

Its either your compressor start device relay/overload or compressor itself thats bad.

Follow the guide here:
[FIXED] How to replace a (Whirlpool/Kenmore Model 106) Refrigerator Start Relay

To check the compressor start device relay/overload:

What I do is unplug the refrigerator, then remove the wiring(mark down where the wires go) then remove the relay and overload(the white piece behind the relay) then I shake the relay to hear it rattles, if it rattles, then its broken inside and thats the part you would need to replace.

Your model may have the relay/overload combined into a single white or black piece, just remove that and shake it.

I use an ohm meter as well to check for continuity on both the relay and overload if the relay doesn't rattle.

Here's the compressor start relay for your model you can order here if needed:
Manufacturer's Number: 2212964

2212964

Let us know what you find.

Jake

Hi Jake -

Thanks for fast reply.

Relay is solid, no noise when shaking, no visible scorch marks, wiring looks good. Is it easy to check compressor windings and relay contacts? I'm not sure which terminals on relay are supposed to be N/O and N/C. Should I hook it back up and plug it in to listen for a particular noise from compressor to help troubleshoot?

-Bob

BTW - local sears has this one on sale today... I'd be interested if you've had any luck with these units.

22.7 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerator- Kenmore-Appliances-Refrigerators-French Door Refrigerators

Just put your meter in the 2 holes on the relay and see if your meter moves to 0-1 ohm with the refrigerator unplugged.

That refrigerator you posted looks like a Kenmore made by LG, I very little knowledge of LG products.

But it looks like a good price, so if you buy it just get the extended warranty for at least 5 yrs on it.

Jake

Just to be clear, the compressor facing side has the 3 slots for run/start/com , the other side has 2 slots for a big cap and two slots for the input wires.

The two holes on the relay to be tested are where the input wires go as opposed to anything on the compressor side... correct?

Ah - I get it, I need to check the side that energizes the relay through the relay coil. If that's "open" or super high resistance, then relay is bad.

Looks like relay is shot. No continuity (infinite resistance) across the energizing coil.

The compressor measured

run to com ~ 5 ohms
start to com ~ 7 ohms
run to start ~ 11.3 ohms

using very cheap multimeter which probably explains why I didn't get 12 ohms.

-BOb

Jake -

Thanks for your help on this. I went ahead and ordered the part you showed me above.

-Bob

Yes Bob, on the relay itself where it plugs into the compressor, the two holes that are in parallel to each other.

Jake