Thread: Kenmore electric dryer 80 series, it runs but no heat! Image that!

Hi,

Yes, a Ohm and voltage meter would be a good idea to check voltage reading and continuity on your dryer.

The first thing i always check for when a dryer runs but doesn't heat is the voltage going in to the back terminal block of the dryer. It should be 240 volts.

Then i would Ohm out the cut-off thermal fuse on the heater housing, the other thermostat on the heater housing, and the heating element.

I would also check for a grounded thermostat or heating element by touching 1 of my meter leads to the heater housing and the other meter lead to all the thermostats and element terminal connections.

But it does sound odd that new thermal cut-off fuse made sparks when you turned on the breaker.:shock:It could be possible when the new ones where put on, that made the power go through whichwould lead to another short or ground in that circuit.

Hope that helps you some, Let us know how it turns out.

Jake

Thanks Jake! I'm going to try it this weekend and will let you know! If it doens't work, then I will be at the laundry mat .Btw, I did chase as many visible wires as I could see and didn't see anything exposed, grounding out or burn marks, in fact, wiring is neatly runned and probably hasn't been touched since the day it was made. Very strange that it blew the way it did. It friedthe fusebad!

Ok, Sounds good.

Good Luck Mike, let us know how it works out.

Jake

Okay, here's what I know. Dryer is getting 240V. The hot line to the thermal fuse is getting 120V. Here's my question. Should I be getting 120V going out of the fuseto the operating thermostat (red/white) line? If so, I'm not getting any reading with the old fuse. The ohm reading is 0 for old fuse and of course the new fuse that blew is 390 ohms. I just checked the blown fuse to make sure it was reading right, so we know the new fuse is blow, hence the fireworks. All ohm reading are 0 forthe Hi Limit thermostat and the heating element. Is this right? Should I be getting a little resistance? I checked the timer to see what it was getting and the red wire was 120V and when I touched the black it fried my multimeter (don't know if touched the wrong way. In any case. shouldn't the red wire from the timer to the thermal fuse (the only line in) be 120V, which it read. The only way I can see to do this is turn on the dryer and check the voltage while it's on. This may be stupid and it may fry my multimter or fry me! How to I test then?

Just to give yall an update. I couldn't fix the dryer, there is obviously a short somehwere amd I can't find it. I switched some more parts out and they blew as well. I'm not putting any more money or time into this dryer. I've decided to buy a new one and donate this one to Salvation Army. I hate to say I have been defeated by the dryer but I tried eveything I could. O'well, maybe next time Thanks Jake for yourinput, you do a great service by trying to help people

Sounded like you had a very intense short somewhere along the line, very unusual.

You seemed to be doing everything right, sorry you were not able to resolve the problem, some appliances can even give advanced appliance techs a nightmare trouble-shooting the problem, Sounds like this is one of them.

Thanks for your kind words, we try to help everyone, we have very good success stories, but as with everything, its hard to get 100% all the time.

Jake