Jake, All,

I have a 1996 model Kenmore Upright Freezer model 253.9260211 and need advice on how to proceed... whether to fix or to purchase a new freezer. Within the last week or so, the freezer has maintained a temperature of 9 to 22 degrees, which isn't good for long term storage. Aside from the temperature change, the next most noticable change is that the freezer no longer gives the swooosh sucking sound when the door is closed. Is this an obvious indication of a particular component failure?

Earlier today, I unloaded and took off the interior panel covering the coils and think I've located the key parts. The drain plug was frozen over, so I used a blow dryer to clear it. Can you provide a set of tests to perform? I'll then unload all the food again and do the tests. It sure would be nice to have another freezer for temporary storage.

I would like if possible to do the repair/replacement work myself. I have an ohm/voltmeter and can run some basic electrical tests if someone can guide me on what to do.

I greatly appreciate your input in resolving this problem!

Thanks much!

Jon

Hi,

Was the ice covering that whole bottom of the vent above the drain hole that was clogged? Bad air circulation through that vent will cause a temp rise.

Now that you have cleared the drain, does it seem to be colder?

Check your door gasket to make sure that has not come lose on the bottom to let air in. If those seem fine, and its still not freezing properly, then its a good chance the compressor is going bad.
Time for a new Freezer.

Jake

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Thanks Jake for the reply.

It was mostly frozen over, but not completely, so I'm sure there was some room for air flow. I checked the temp again this a.m. and it is at 18.6 degrees. So is it the compressor that creates the vacuum sound when the door is closed?

Is there a test I can perform to confirm if it is the compressor?

Thanks,

Jon

The only definitive way to determine if you have a compressor or some other sealed system issue is to look at the evaporator, which is located in the rear inside the freezer near the bottom.

http://www3.sears.com/Paul/Leadimage...titleID=00002&

Remove panel 25 shown in the inset.

http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_notcold.html

Some good general help on refrigerators (same broad principles apply to your freezer), including pictures of evaporators with sealed system problems.
Generally, this kind of issue is not cost-effective to repair, and particularly not with freezers (fairly cheap to buy a new one).

Thanks Mac. I looked at the evaporator yesterday when I the freezer unloaded and the panel removed. I guess it looked okay... there was no frost build up, but I expected some. Perhaps it was because it took a while to unload the food and remove the panel and that the frost melted within that time frame. Is there something particular I should be looking for?

Thanks too for the links. I'd read through those yesterday. I go through the defrost timer cycles and observe the behavior and reply back tonight.

Jon

The door pulling in tight is caused by lower pressure due to colder temperatures inside.

Your evaporator coils should be frosted over. As techinicians, we look for a full frost pattern to tell us if there's a problem. It sounds like you may most likely have a sealed system problem and given the age of 10 years, a repair could be more expensive than a new unit.

In my experience with frigidaire built freezers, like yours is, in that build time frame, a lot of those had restriction problems. One thing you can do is check the back of the unit. You'll see a copper piece that kind of looks like a bulb and has a really small diameter piece of copper coming out of that. If that feels cold or cooler than ambient temperature, you may have a restriction. That filter drier isn't too bad to replace, but it's still a salty job. If you can get a new freezer for 3 or 4 bills, I'd suggest it.

Thanks jmshaffer.

The copper stem and bulb you suggested checking is indeed slightly cool. Where in the system does this indicate a restriction? In the filter-dryer? I bought a ref/frzr repair manual yesterday and will see if there is a section regarding this condition. If you have some insight or advise I'd appreciate it. As a backup, I did find a good replacement with a very good warranty for $600.

Jon

Basically, you can't repair this yourself. It requires detection of the leak/restriction/whatever, deep evacuation of the system to recover the old refrigerant, repair of the problem, recharge of the system with the correct weight of refrigerant (which you'll need EPA certification to buy in the first place) and testing. A lot of independent servicers no longer do sealed system work because of the hassle involved. Add that to the fact that the longer warranties on sealed system issues are now gone from all but the very top end brands, and it'll be almost a dead skill in a few years. If that's the problem, it's shopping time.

Right, you can't repair yourself man. A cool or cold drier suggests a restriction. However, there could be other issues causing it. The drier temperature is usually the first thing I check when I suspect a system problem. Usually I can determine most problems by feel or visual inspection of the evaporator coils. Since you've got food as your concern, drop the 4-600 on a new one. I'd do a drier job for no less than 150 on the side. A company would probably charge 300 or more

I don't think refrigeration will be a dead skill at all man. You gotta remember about extended service policies....still will be tons of work

Thanks Guys for your input. I greatly appreciate it. The place I do business with said they could inspect/diagnose if for $50 and if it turns out not worth fixing, then they'll take $25 of the fee off the price of the new one. That seems like a good idea just to confirm this unit is beyond repair. I'll let you know what they find.

Jon