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May 4th, 2005, 06:03 PM
#1
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Greetings,
My Kenmore Elite "Even Heat" gas dryer model 110.70957990, S/N MK0703077 starts & runs normally for several minutes, then beeps two or three times, and stops early. Do the beeps represent an error code, or is that just another fault condition?
This happens whether thelarge dialisset formoisture sensing or timer mode, and appears independant of the heat setting (although my impression is that the cotton setting may run a bit longer). Sometimes the dryer will complete the cycle, other times the clothes barely have time to warm up.
I've skimmed the postings regarding the even heat board failures, and will visually inspect the board, but have not seen other reports of running a while, beeping two or three times, then stopping early.
Even though my parents had nothing but trouble with Kenmore appliances, I bought a new washer & dryer based on the recommendation of Consumer Reports (I concluded Sears must have finally gotten it's ducks in a row). Now after they're a couple of years old, BOTH have had problems. After this, no more Kenmore ANYTHING for me, ever.
Thanks in advance, and sorry for the rant,
Steve K.
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May 4th, 2005, 06:25 PM
#2
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Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
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May 4th, 2005, 07:31 PM
#3
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Thanks Jake,
After posting the last message I tipped the console back, and visually inspected the Even Heat board. There's no sign of burned resistors, or vented caps. Having found the tech sheet (mine is P/N 3977697), and seeing theheading "Thermistor Test or Dryer Beeps 3 Times When PTS Pressed" on page 5, I ran the thermistor test. The dryer doesn't stop or beep, but then it sometimes completes a whole cycle (especially with a big heavy wet load, like towels or jeans), so the test may not be conclusive. Maybe I should pull it and measure it? The dryer passes the Damp Dry test too.
At the risk of spotlighting my complete ignorance; Where's the moisture sensor? The tech sheet describes a test for it, but I don't know where it is. The dryer will quit when in timed dry mode, but maybe the moisture sensor is used as a safety input?
I may just replace the thermistor and give it a try. If the old one turns out to be good, then I'll have a spare. 
Thanks again,
Steve K.
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May 4th, 2005, 08:17 PM
#4
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The moisture sensorsits right under the filter grill inside the dryer. Its the 2 metal bars.
When you start a load on timed dry, it will go maybe 5-10 mintues then beep and quit?
Its very rare its the moisture sensor itself,I replace more thermistors and control boards on your model dryer than anything else.
Good Luck,
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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May 4th, 2005, 08:52 PM
#5
imported post
Hi Jake,
> The moisture sensorsits right under the filter grill inside the dryer. Its the 2 metal bars.
Got it! (never noticed it before) It checks out O.K. when touched w/ a damp rag in factory test mode
.
>When you start a load on timed dry, it will go maybe 5-10 mintues then beep and quit?
Roughly, yes. Usually two or three beeps. I initially thought these might be "beep codes", like when a PC detects a problem while booting. It varies widely, andseems to getworse asthe dryer"warms up".
BTW, I'm amazed at the thermistor price tag (~ $22). We assemble thermistors into fuel-level probes at work, and most are less than $1! Cheap compared to other parts though, I suppose.
Thanks,
Steve K.
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May 4th, 2005, 11:17 PM
#6
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No Problem Steve.
Keep us updated if you can.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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May 7th, 2005, 10:48 AM
#7
imported post
The new thermistor is in, and the dryer has been running for a few minutes on it's first load. It usually does well on it's first load, and on heavy loads, so the jury is still out. The new & old thermistors compared about the same with an ohmmeter, as shown below;
P/N 3976625 thermistors at 70 deg;
New Old
10.5K 10.25K
I spent about as much time trying to figure out how to remove the kick plate as in swapping out the thermistor. It was possible to see that four clips hold that panel on, and that the two lower clips appeared to be more permanently fixed that those on top. One web page showed the panel folded down, hinged on the lower clips, but not how to release the tops. A closer look with a flashlight revealed the front edge of the top clips is bent downward to accept a flat tool inserted into the "crack". This must seem rediculously obvious to you guys with more experience, but I didn't want to just "have at it" with a pry bar, and end up breaking the clips.
Thanks again for the advice,
Steve K.
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May 7th, 2005, 07:14 PM
#8
imported post
Anytime Steve,
Thanks for the update.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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May 8th, 2005, 08:16 PM
#9
imported post
The dryer got through a laundry day without any early stops, so the problem was a bad thermistor. I guess this means a bad one won't always act up at room temperature. You had the source of the trouble pegged Jake! Thanks again,
Steve K.
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May 8th, 2005, 10:59 PM
#10
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Great to hear you got it going Steve.
Thanks for the update.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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