I have a Kenmore model# 106.52559100, serial# SL1653647 built 4/2001. For most of this summer, I have not been happy with the performance of our fridge. It gets cold but milk isn't really cold. Granted that we keep milk on the door but we tried keeping it on the shelf but there was no difference in temp. Now the milk stored in our other fridge is noticabley colder than the milk stored in this fridge. I have lowered the temp to its lowest setting but it makes no difference in temp. At one point this summer, water appeared to overflow from the pan under the fridge. At that time, coils where cleaned as well as condensor fan motor.

Frustrated, I just checked the condensor fan motor again thinking it may not be spinning fast enough, etc.. I took the 2 wire connector off the motor and measured resistance using the two most outer pins (these are where the wires lead to) and got 7.78 ohms on my digital fluke. I did not measure resistance on the two inside pins as I believe (but could be wrong) they are not being used. When I reconnect the fan and plug in the fridge, I hear the commpressor start and 122v is at the fan motor connector but the fan motor does not spin. I am assuming that the motor is bad as we have voltage to it but no movement. My only concern is the fan motor connector. It is terribly frail with little pins. It is possible it got screwed up when I took it off the fan motor. The motor itself has tiny male pins and this connector has female connectors that slide over the male pins. As the fan motor is 115v I was going to try just running 115v directly to the motor via another cord to bypass the connector but the pins are too small.

Does 7.78 ohms indicate a bad motor? Anything else I should consider?

Thanks..

Neil

Hi Neil
check my post a few down in the boards --- Kenmore Side by Side - Fridge too warm.

How is your freezer?

Mine freezer was fine, but fridge too warm. It ended up being the deforst thermostat, and the defrost timer. Replaced those, and fridge back to 37.

Good Luck
Leggo.

Thanks for your good information input Leggo.

Also this link should help Neil:
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_notcold.html

Your condenser motor seems fine, I would check for air leaks around your door gaskets, too much water in your drain pan can sometimes indicate an air leak, causing excessive condensation.

Jake

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I have checked resistance of the fan motor and sometimes I get a reading of 7.78 ohms but most of the time I get an open. When I connect the fan motor to the connector, I get nothing. I am certain this motor is bad.

Looking up the replacement motor I get Item #2790 (sorry can't paste the link) which looks considerably different than what I have. Also, it is clockwise rotation. Can anyone tell me if the clockwise rotation is from the perspective of looking at the front (shaft or fan blade) or from the back (screw holes) of the motor? The rotation is very important .

Thanks..

Neil

Item #2790 is a replacement motor for my condensor fan. It has a clockwise rotation when looking at the rear of the motor. Won't it blow direct air on the drip pan rather than the compressor or condensor coils? Isn't this wrong? I would think I need more airflow towards the compressor and coils.

Thoughts?

Thanks..

Neil

All,

I replaced a defective condensor fan motor this summer and our fridge still doesn't get very cold, even at the coldest setting. The freezer works fine and makes ice. Once every week or two, we get a puddle of water under the left bottom of the fridge. The drip tray doesn't appear cracked.

Per other posts, I guess I need to start looking at the defrost parts. When looking up replacement parts, the only thing I found was a defrost thermostat. I assume the timer is part of the control board but I am not sure. What other parts should I test. Is there a website that shows how to test all of this stuff?

Thanks..

Neil

I forgot to state I get very little air out of the air diffuser. I found a little ice on the air diffuser. When I test it in diagnostic mode, I hear the moter turn on but never see the vanes close. I think there always open.

Thoughts?

Thanks..

Neil

Hi Neil,

You say you get very little air out of your diffuser? Try to stick a pen or pencil in the diffuser to see if it actually opens the vanes all the way and see if your air flow increases. We have had lots of trouble with those diffusers in the last 6 years.

Is your freezer section keeping real cold? and your refrigerator section not?

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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The diffuser seems to be stuck open. I am assuming the vanes are at the very top - white shutters. If so, I have never found them closed. I am able to put a penceil in pretty far in. If I move it around, it sounds like I am moving styrofoam. I wonder if I have an ice build up in there. The lower vent doesn't have much airflow. How do I take the diffuser out? Also, during a diagnostic test, should the diffuser open and close? All mine did was make a little noise.

The freezer seems to be working fine and the fridge part never seems to get cold enough, regardless of setting. I am starting to believe that the fridge is always running - humming doing something.

Any ideas?


Thanks...
Neil

Yes, Ice could be clogging it.

Yes, it should open and close.

To remove your diffuser:
You have to push-in on the 4 clips from the freezer side to remove it.
You may have to remove the ice maker and the air tunnel to get to it.
Then it will come out in the refrigerator section.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances