Hi! I've got a 9 yr old Kenmore direct drive, top loading washer (110.26932691) and I've spent the past few hours going through all the info on this site and some other related ones as well.

Today I washed some bath mats on Fast/Fast (which I've washed in the past) and noticed after the load was done, that they were still wet and maybe a little too heavy. After trying different settings, I realized that both agitation and spinning weren't happening at any speed. The machine will drain fine.

Here's what I've discovered so far:
- The machine will drain, so the motor is running.
- I've jumpered the lid switch connector and still no spinning, etc.
- The motor coupler isn't broken. Although, there's a little play on the gearbox side.
- It doesn't look like the clutch (? the bell shaped thing above the gear box/transmission) turns during wash or spin cycles.
- If I turn the motor by hand, CW or CCW, the clutch still doesn't move.
- Turning the inner tub is difficult, but it will move the clutch bell.
- The gearbox is pretty clean. I didn't notice any grease.

I hope it's not a transmission problem! I don't have a spanner wrench yet to take the tub off. Could it be a bearing problem? Can I get a spanner wrench at Home Depot/Lowes?

It's late and I'm going to bed. There's probably not much chance that the magical washer fairies will come by and fix it tonight, huh?

Thanks!
Dennis

Unfortunately, it sounds like a transmission/gearcase problem, mainly because you stated the motor would run, but would not agitate or spin.

With the motor removed from the gearcase, try to turn the coupler on the gearcase side one way for many turns, and see if your agitator moves back and forth, then turn the coupler on the gearcase the other way many turns to see if the tub starts to move.

Jake

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Jake,

Thanks for the reply! I followed your suggestion and spun the transmission shaft directly - the plastic portion of the coupler just spun without affecting the drum. However, after further investigation, I found that the hub portion of the coupler had stripped out and was smooth! So, I pried off the piece that was on the motor end and used that to spin the transmission shaft. That did the trick! I hadn't seen this failure mode listed for the coupler so I assumed that actual breakage would be involved.

I was this close > < to shopping for a new machine! Thanks for getting me to look a little closer!
Dennis

Glad to help Dennis,

Yes, I have seen that plastic coupler on the transmission/gearcase shaft get wallowed out and just spin freely without moving the transmission/gearcase shaft at all.

Its definitely the coupler thats bad.
Drive motor to transmission coupling, replaces all previous styles and versions. (for direct-drive washers with no belt)


Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Hello everyone and thank you for a very informative forum. I have taken apart my series 80 washer and replaced the motor coupling. It was totally worn out.
I plugged the washer in and tested it. The tub spun and the agitator agitated! Yeah!
I put Three towels in to give it a full test. Things seemed to be going well, no strange noises or walking washers until I noticed a burning rubber smell and light hazy smoke.
I unplugged and have given it a visual with out any noticable hot parts or burn marks.
Any ideas?