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December 17th, 2006, 09:45 AM
#1
Kenmore 80 110.70852990 weird heat/no heat problem
When it rains it pours, eh? Just had to change the timer on the washer (thanks Jake!), now the dryer's acting up.
Here's what's happening. I turn the dryer on and it runs just fine for about 10 or so minutes, then it starts making a somewhat high pitch scraping noise. The noise lasts for about 10 or 15 seconds, then goes away, comes back after a minute or so and continues to do this until I turn the dryer off. Also, once the noise kicks in, the heat goes away.
I'm stumped. I can't tell exactly where the noise is coming from because of the dryer's running noise. The scraping isn't super loud, but loud enough to hear it down the hallway.
Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Thanks
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December 17th, 2006, 03:52 PM
#2
Most likely the idler pulley or rollers is the source of the noise.
OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
APPLIANCE TECHNICIAN FOR 25 YEARS
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December 17th, 2006, 07:45 PM
#3
Yes, I would agree with Rick.
Here is a link to help you open up the dryer to check the rollers and idler pulley:
http://www.applianceaid.com/wpdryer_how-to.html
Here is a slide show of it too:
http://www.applianceaid.com/slidewpdry.html
Here is the roller kit you can order, also the idler pulley link is here as well:


Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
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Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
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December 17th, 2006, 10:19 PM
#4

Originally Posted by
redbeardnmt
Most likely the idler pulley or rollers is the source of the noise.
Would that be causing the heat to shut off? If so, just out of curiosity, why does the noise start and stop in intervals right after the heat stops working?
Thanks!
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December 17th, 2006, 10:44 PM
#5
I knew you were going to ask that question and the answer is no, the rollers or idler pully would not cause the heat to go on and off. What I think is happening is when the heat comes on it causing the metal to expand. This is when you hear the noise. when the heater goes off it contracts and the noise goes away. I have a feeling you'll find the left rear roller bad.
Rick
OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
APPLIANCE TECHNICIAN FOR 25 YEARS
REFRIGERATION SPECIALIST
ONLINE SERV TECH: ApplianceBlog.com
CERTIFIED TYPE 1; TYPE 2.....REFRIGERATION SERVICE E.S.
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December 18th, 2006, 08:02 AM
#6

Originally Posted by
redbeardnmt
I knew you were going to ask that question and the answer is no, the rollers or idler pully would not cause the heat to go on and off. What I think is happening is when the heat comes on it causing the metal to expand. This is when you hear the noise. when the heater goes off it contracts and the noise goes away. I have a feeling you'll find the left rear roller bad.
Rick
I see what you're saying...I'll definitely check that left roller. However, the heating issue is that it only comes on once during the whole cycle. After the heat shuts off the first time, it never comes back.
Looks like maybe I have two seperate problems, or I'm completely missing what you guys are saying
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December 18th, 2006, 11:47 AM
#7
Your not missing anything. The noise has nothing to do with the heater staying off. Sounds like two problems. Don't worry, I don't think either one is a major repair. If I remember correctly, this is a gas dryer. You can remove the lower panel and watch the gas valve when you turn the dryer on. You should see the glow coil turn red then hear the gas valve click, the gas will then ignight. Wait for it to shut off(a few min). Then watch for the glow coil to come back on and tell me what happens.
Rick
OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
APPLIANCE TECHNICIAN FOR 25 YEARS
REFRIGERATION SPECIALIST
ONLINE SERV TECH: ApplianceBlog.com
CERTIFIED TYPE 1; TYPE 2.....REFRIGERATION SERVICE E.S.
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December 18th, 2006, 03:07 PM
#8
Okay, here's what happens:
At first turn on of the dryer, igniter starts to glow, gas kicks in, all is well.
Runs until gas turns off the first time.
When the igniter starts to glow again is exactly when the noise starts. The noise lasts the whole time the igniter is glowing, and the noise goes away when the igniter stops glowing. The flame does not kick back in and no heat.
It continues to do this.
Thanks!
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December 19th, 2006, 09:59 AM
#9
OK, you need to replace the coils that are on top of the gas valve. This is a fairly easy repair. Let me know if you need step by step instructions.
They come in a kit. You can use Maytag part # 12001349
Rick
OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
APPLIANCE TECHNICIAN FOR 25 YEARS
REFRIGERATION SPECIALIST
ONLINE SERV TECH: ApplianceBlog.com
CERTIFIED TYPE 1; TYPE 2.....REFRIGERATION SERVICE E.S.
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December 19th, 2006, 10:33 AM
#10
Awesome, I'll head down to the Sears parts center ASAP. If I give them that Maytag #, will it work for the Kenmore?
Thanks
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