[FIXED] Kenmore 110.22872100 won't spin without help - Page 2 - ApplianceBlog.com

***Jake*** · #11 February 21st, 2007, 11:01 PM

Glad you got it fixed, and its back to normal again.

Jake

***petrbilt*** · #12 February 6th, 2010, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake

Here is a photo of it:

Turn that white plastic piece, it should turn freely and turn your spin basket tub freely.

Jake

I am having the same problem, I have the clutch and gearbox removed, but haven't been able to get the spanner nut off. When I try to turn that plastic piece on the bottom of the drive, however, it is very difficult to turn the basket. Sometimes the basket seems to move freely, sometimes not, but it is never very easy from that piece. the clutch looks okay, the gearbox has a very small amount of oil on the outside, and not a lot of oil was underneath the washer when I moved it.

What symptoms would I look for to figure out if the problem is the drive, one and for all? What signs of wear, or specific symptoms?

Thanks, appreciate the help

***Jake*** · #13 February 6th, 2010, 12:06 PM

You would need to take the spanner nut off to remove the basket drive.

I use a spanner tool, but you can try a pipe wrench as well.

Jake

***petrbilt*** · #14 February 6th, 2010, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake

You would need to take the spanner nut off to remove the basket drive.

I use a spanner tool, but you can try a pipe wrench as well.

Jake

Got it, but how do I confirm my issue is the drive (as oppoed to the gearbox or clutch)? Any thoughts or advice?

***Jake*** · #15 February 6th, 2010, 01:35 PM

There's really no way to confirm it, I always change the basket drive and clutch together, because they both work together as one.

But from the gearcase oil you see, that will only get worse over time, so I'd think twice about investing all your money into the repair parts with your gearcase starting to leak oil.

How old is your washer? If you don't know post the serial# and I can tell you.

Jake

***petrbilt*** · #16 February 7th, 2010, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake

There's really no way to confirm it, I always change the basket drive and clutch together, because they both work together as one.

But from the gearcase oil you see, that will only get worse over time, so I'd think twice about investing all your money into the repair parts with your gearcase starting to leak oil.

How old is your washer? If you don't know post the serial# and I can tell you.

Jake

So I just did the same thing as one of the other guys on here and put some spacers in the clutch band to increase the friction on the clutch. I cleaned everything up, put it all back together and it seems to be working okay. There is a high-pitched noise when the spin cycle begins that I assume is the clutch friction material scraping, but the speed looks good on the sping cycle after 4 loads.

I may yet replace the clutch since I know how to do it and can turn that around in pretty short order, but for now I'll see how this works.

***Jake*** · #17 February 7th, 2010, 07:01 PM

Ok, sounds good, yes you'll likely need to change the clutch too.

Jake

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