Hello! This is a wonderful forum. I have found it so far to be very helpful.
However I have looked all over and not found a solution to my problem.

My washer will work just fine ectept during the spin cycle. In order for it to spin, I have to stick a pen in the door latch switch and manually turn the drum to get it started. Then I have to run the washer through the spin cycle about 4-5 times for the clothes to be dry enough to put in the dryer. I have checked the coupling and it appears to be just fine. At least there wasn't any plastic broke off or anything.

Please help me, I would greatly appreciate any help you can provide.

Thanks!

Good info here. http://www.applianceaid.com/direct-nospin.html

Yes, if the coupler looks good, and the rubber piece is not worn either, then I would say your basket drive/clutch assembly is worn out, how old is your washer?

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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I'm not sure exactly how old it is, but I'm thinking probably around 10 years or so.

If the basket drive is worn, then how do I check and repair that? Can I repair that?

Thanks for your assistance! I really appreciate it!

Well, I got the basket drive off, but I see nothing broken or anything like that. How do I tell if it is worn or not? It has two brake pads (or whatever you call it) on the outside of it, and they are smooth. Does that mean it's worn?

I found an interesting thing. I can't believe I didn't notice it before. On the motor there are two plugs. One is the big group of wires, and the other just has two wires. The contacts on the plug with just the two wires was completely green and corroded. I followed the wires up the machine and found they attach to the speed switch on the control panel. I believe this may be the problem.

My theory is that water leaked out of somewhere and leaked into the plug. Over time it corroded the contacts so they could not conduct anymore. If I clean these contacts and reassemble the washer, I believe that it will work just fine again.

I will let you know of my results when I finish.

No, I don't think its the wires giving you the problem, the basket drive is just worn out after 10 years. If you are planning to replace the basket drive, I would also recommend replacing the clutch as well, as that works together with the basket drive.

Now buying these 2 parts can be expensive, so its better if you weigh the cost of the parts versus a new washer.

Here is the basket drive for your model, in case you decide to order it:
Manufacturer part number 285792 is RepairClinic item number 1254
285792

Here is your clutch assembly:
Manufacturer part number 285785 is RepairClinic item number 2670
285785

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

I haven't had a chance to put the washer back together yet. So while I still have it apart, how do I determine if the basket drive is worn and needs replaiced?

Here is a photo of it:


Turn that white plastic piece, it should turn freely and turn your spin basket tub freely.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Well, I got it working now. I had my Dad help me with it, and we discovered that the inside of the clutch assembly was worn, causing it to slip and not release the brake on the basket drive. So, the basket drive was fine we just needed a new clutch assembly. My dad sanded the inside of the clutch and the pads on the ring, and put two washers on the ends of the spring to expand the ring so it doesn't slip anymore, and that fixed the washer temporarily. I went down to the local Sears repair store and bought a new one for about $32.88, installed in our washer, and now it works just fine.

Thank you for all of your help, without this website it would have taken me forever to get this thing fixed.