Sears Kenmore frontload washer model 417-29042991 won't run unless door is pressed closed. The door closes and latches, but unless I press on it after pulling out the cycle control dial (which causes the door lock indicator light to go on), it will not start. Once the door is pressed in and held, the machine starts filling and completes the cycle. It is as if the machine is not getting the message that the door is closed. The door and hinge appear to be in alignment, and there is nothing obstructing the seal. For a few months before this happened, the door wouldn't open at the end of a cycle unless pushed inward slightly first.

We ordered $100 worth of parts from Sears: a door catch and door lock/switch assembly. My husband replaced the door catch (same as the old one), but the lock/switch assembly (part#131269401) is more than he feels he wants to tangle with since it entails all kinds of adapters and wiring (this is a generic part made to repair many different brands), and that may not be the problem anyway.

Do you have any ideas as far as what else we could check first before getting in over our heads? It seems like it should be a simple fix. Last year we had Sears replace the entire tub/drum assembly (a big repair) on this machine, and we're really hoping to get a few more years out of it. Constantly re-scheduling for the Sears techs to complete that job was a 2 month ordeal which I never ever want to repeat. Does anyone have any ideas on what might get this machine working again? That is, besides leaning a step ladder weighed down with a gallon can of paint against the door!

Your gonna have to bite the bullet and install the latch assy... read the directions and take your time it not that bad....

I found that part for $77.30 here:
Part#131269401
Door lock/latch kit

Jake

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Thanks Jake. Sears charged $72.26 for the lock assembly. Total with the door catch $6.95 and shipping $15.99 and tax $7.14 came to $102.34.

Shipping was so high because a 15 lb. concrete counterweight was included and we have no idea why...there is no mention of it in the instructions. Do you know why they put that in?

I guess from your reply that you concur that the door lock assembly is the likely repair necessary?

Yes, that concrete counterweight isn't really necessary for most models, I don't know why they still include it.

Yes, that lock assembly should solve the problem.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

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The block is incase yours is the older model without the recessed area for the latch... with out of balance loads they had a habit of banging on the latch and breaking it... just feel for a recessed area on yours to see if needed...