[FIXED] Another Kenmore Dryer problem - Page 2 - ApplianceBlog.com

kellyt · #11 January 29th, 2005, 10:09 AM

Hello, I'm having the same problem with model 110.64982300 Kenmore Elite dryer. This web site is wonderful. I'm going to print the previous replies and attempt to see if my board looks the same. I'm not very technical and my hubby is even less technical.:? Hopefully, with your advice I can fix the problem myself. Since this is such a common problem, can't we as consumers do something? Is there somewhere we can complain to possibly get a recall on this? Seems like pure robbery to me!:X

***jeff1*** · #12 January 29th, 2005, 10:58 AM

Howdy,

**Is there somewhere we can complain to possibly get a recall on this?**

Just me rambling.....and my 0.87 cents worth :?

Recalls are normally done for a safety issue only ( fire, electricution, ect ) and not for a part(s) failure....sorry!

jeff.

Mad Mac · #13 January 29th, 2005, 11:01 AM

The design of this board has been revised several times (I remember it having at least four different part numbers during my time at Sears - Jake, how many do you remember?) yet the problems continue. At one time, I kept four of these on my truck just to ensure that I always had at least one. It actually reached the point that when I went to get a new washer/dryer pair, the salesman said to me "I take it you don't want an Even Heat dryer?" Sadly, it's the way of things now. Can anyone here think of an electronic board by Whirlpool that hasn't had a litany of problems?

NoTalent · #14 January 29th, 2005, 12:59 PM

kellyt wrote:

Quote:

Hello, I'm having the same problem with model 110.64982300 Kenmore Elite dryer. This web site is wonderful. I'm going to print the previous replies and attempt to see if my board looks the same. I'm not very technical and my hubby is even less technical.Â*Â*:?Â*Â*Â* Hopefully, with your advice I can fix the problem myself. Since this is such a common problem, can't we as consumers do something? Is there somewhere we can complain to possibly get a recall on this? Seems like pure robbery to me!:X

I tried my best to get them to pay for it, but I got the usual runaround. :| If you want help I'm sure the guys here can walk you through replacing the part.

***Jake*** · #15 January 29th, 2005, 08:00 PM

Mad Mac wrote:

Quote:

The design of this board has been revised several times (I remember it having at least four different part numbers during my time at Sears - Jake, how many do you remember?)

To many! I stopped counting after 2, that was enough for me.
I just go into my SST Lap Top and look it up by the model #,
but i always check my service flashes first.

Jake

***Jake*** · #16 January 29th, 2005, 08:02 PM

kellyt wrote:

Quote:

This web site is wonderful.

Thank you Kellyt for your kind words, we try to help everyone.

Jake

kellyt · #17 January 30th, 2005, 06:58 PM

Hello again. Well, I told ya I wasn't very technical! Can anyone explain how to get the top panel (where the buttons/knobs are located) off? I looked at a diagram on the Sears web-site but couldn't figure it out. I took the 2 screws off the very back, pulled the knobs off and attempted to pry the panel off with a flat-head but no luck. I was afraid I would break it if I pryed too hard. With 2 neighbors visiting, 4 dogs and 5 kids running around, I finally gave up. I'm hoping with your wisdom and the kids at school, I'll be more successfull tomorrow! Thanks in advance for your help & time! KT

***Jake*** · #18 January 30th, 2005, 07:27 PM

On your model you have 2 clips under the console front on both end sides, get a flat putty knife and push in under the console on the right side, while pushing in with the putty knife on the clip, lift the console upwards. Do the exact same for the Left side of the console, Then once both clips have been released, rotate the console up and back on its plastic hinges. Please make sure all the power is off before you start this job!

Because once the console is pulled back, it will expose all the parts under the console including the 240 volt power terminal block.

Then you can inspect the board for burned spots like the picture posted in this forum.

Good Luck.

Jake

kellyt · #19 January 31st, 2005, 09:54 AM

Jake, Thank you. That worked. My board doesn't look like the one above. I can't find any signs of it being burned-up. Other than a little dusty, all looks o.k. I'm going to print off the tests on the web-site NoTalent submitted. I'm just not sure what else to do. Do you feel that even though my board doesn't look burned up that it's still the problem?

kellyt · #20 January 31st, 2005, 10:44 AM

O.K... I'm a little nervous. Looking at the info NoTalent referred to, I see where the site recommends checking that there is 48VDC at the motor relay. I've never used a voltage reader. I'm assuming the dryer should be plugged in to check the wires on the motor relay-

Now, I have options on the voltage reader for DC v that read 2.5 - 1000. Where should I set it? I have read to test the 'pink' wires on the motor relay. Which "voltage readerprongs" (red or black or both) do I touch to the pink wires? Bet your getting nervous just reading my questions ha? I'm not going to touch anything till I get a response from someone on how to do this. I really don't need to be electrocuted today!:shock:

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