Yes, check your motor relay by swapping the heater relay with it, they are both the same part numbers.

This thread goes into good detail about the motor relay:
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/showthread.php?t=91

Jeff also has a good link on his site about this:
http://www.applianceaid.com/evenheat.html

Jake

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Hello, it's quite a long story here. I have Kenmore Elite model # 110.70056990 purchased about 4 years ago. Unfortunately, it has the infamous TOUCH PANEL. Now I read the append detailing the story of continous beeping ( we had that ). The dryer control ( Cotton, Perm Press etc ) won't work unless I Press them down and press START at the same time. So, we've tolerated the beeping noise thoughout the drying cycle.( Oh yes, we had the "Check the lint screen" light on ).
But starting a week ago, this trick stopped working. Now when I select the options, it acts normal ( Except the lint screen light is still on - If I open the door and close it, it goes away ). But when I press START, nothing happens. Yes I here normal click when I press the button and the "DRYING" light goes on but no motors turning and no heat. Oh yes, TIMER ( Either TIMED or AUTO ) continues to run. Reading all of the past append, I'm thinking it could be both Control Panel and Control Board. That's $300 bucks just for parts.. I called Sears ( 1-800-4-MYHOME) but the guy on the other side didn't know anything about dryer or SVC Flash. He simply says I'll be charged $65 for the diagnose and he tried to sell me $35 Washer Tuning ( Is this an automobile now? ).
My wife and I both working 8-7 and we really can't afford to be home waiting for a tech many times. Can I just order these two parts and try it?
Can I return these parts if they don't fix the problem?
( FYI, I opend the top part and found a Diagnose Manual for techs but the dryer passed the diagnose test with flying colors - all lights light up and go out as described )..

I'd appreciate anything that could make my dryer turn.. Thanks.

Yes, you can.

Here is your control board:

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Thanks Jake. Mine is Graphite so it cost $12 more :-(
Anyway, do you agree with my amateur diagnose that the first part ( beeping ) is caused by bad Control Panel and the second part ( motor not running ) is caused by bad Control Board ? Are my model parts also re-engineered not to break anymore? I can't imagine chaging $350 parts more than once..

Thanks again.

The beeping is the control panel. Here is the Graphite one for you model:

Motor not running could be more than just a control board, could be a bad motor relay, bad thermal fuse. Its always better to test parts with a volt/ohm meter to make sure you get the correct part.

This thread and Jeff's site has excellent detail on testing parts:
http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html

Jake

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Thanks for the info Jake but funny thing happened. I was disassembling the Control Board and the Control Panel to practice for eventual replacement. They weren't that hard except the plastic hinges.
But when I assemble them all back, it started to work. In fact, beeping noise is gone too except the Lint light is still on. I'm sure it'll be back but I'm hoping I don't have to spend $350 for a while..

Thanks again.. I guess they're very unstable parts. Who knows what's causing all these.. It used to be transitors, capacitors and resistors :-)

Yes, I have seen that happen before, when you take it apart then put it back again it works, but the question is for how long. Hopefully for a long time to come.

Glad its working again.

This thread will always be here in case you need to order those parts.

Jake

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Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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Yup, thanks to you and this forum, when and if it happens again, I feel prepared.

Hi all,

Just wanted to share my experience with the Kenmore 110.63942101. Naturally, keying in this model number led me to this site. Like many of you, my dryer would stop unless the PTS button was held. After reading this site and a bunch of others, I suspected the even heat control board was the culprit and pulled it out. There were no signs of charring, but I ordered a new one from Repariclinic.com anyway (part # 8546229 [replaced 8545904]). It arrived when they said it would. Today I installed the new board and started the dryer, and it seemed to be fine! My fiancee did a happy dance around the basement. I opened the door of the dryer, and it stopped running. When I closed the door and tried to start it again, the symptom had reappeared. My new $96 control board had gotten the machine working for about 10 seconds. I returned to this page and, digging deeper, found Jake's post about swapping the relays to test if the start relay had failed. I swapped the relays and the dryer worked like a charm. Then I replaced the old evenheat board. It still worked. We've dried several loads already tonight. The only puzzling thing is, shouldn't I be losing some other function (heat?) if one of the relays is bad? All I did was swap the two relays, one of which was presumably bad. I'm happy it's working, but still skeptical. Anyway, I thought others might find this to be at least a temporary solution if replacing the evenheat board does not work.

I have a 110.63952102 Elite (came with house I bought). The other day the heater would not come on, but I was having no problems with the PTS button. Troubleshooting the heater lead me to replace the heater relay. I did note that I was getting 72V at the relay control. The dryer worked for around 2 days and now the unit won't run unless the button is pressed. Sure enough the control board has the fried caps and resistor, so I guess I need to replace the board. Problem is the control board that was in my machine is PN:3976633 Rev D, all the replacement parts I've seen have a completely differnet part. Is the board I currently have the wrong one or have they changed the board and given it a new part number? I don't want to order the wrong part and possibly blow that one also

TIA
Pete