Trio model 795.775.56600 interior light burn - ApplianceBlog.com

Tbrooks · #1 May 29th, 2007, 07:38 AM

My trio unit had a strong burning smell coming from it on Wednesday evening. My husband and I checked it over but couldn't determine the problem. Thursday morning everything on top shelf was hot to the touch, and the burning smell still strong. I called for repair (year warranty good till July, 07) but they said they couldn't send repairman until Friday. Fortunately I had a service man coming that morning for another repair on my maytag front loader. I asked him to please take a look at the fridge. We realized the interior light would not go off, even with both contacts pushed in manually. He removed the interior light kit (now melted). When the other service man came the following day he told me I had left the door open - user neglect - and that caused the problem. He really didn't even look at it and I had to argue with him that in fact we had closed the doors and that the other service man and I had checked the contacts and the light was not going out even with the doors closed. He said he'd check w/his supervisor to see if he'd give me the "benefit of the doubt" and replace the light. Aside from this arrogance, my concern is that another light will have the same problem, and if I'm not around there may be a fire.

Has anyone seen this problem before? Any suggestions? I'm still waiting for a call back from Sears since last Friday. I called today again and after waiting 30 minutes was told a supervisor would call back, but still haven't heard anything. Thanks for any help!

***Jake*** · #2 May 29th, 2007, 11:03 AM

Yes, you had a defective light switch, Its very rare to see this happen, having a new light switch put in should be fine, and you shouldn't have to worry about the new one going bad.

Jake

Tbrooks · #3 May 29th, 2007, 01:15 PM

Thanks, Jake. Yes I think it may have just been a defective light. Unfortunately my service person insists that it was my fault for not closing the door fully, in spite of the fact we'd been trying to figure out what was wrong with it since we could smell smoke. Anyway we've had some power surges last week and I'm wondering if that could have something to do with it. It obviously stayed on for a long time. I have since plugged the light back in to see if it would happen again, and it is not happening, so far. Have you ever seen this happen as a result of a power surge? Thanks.

***Jake*** · #4 May 30th, 2007, 09:19 AM

No, Its unlikely a power surge caused it, it was just defective.

Jake

***hpressley*** · #5 April 24th, 2008, 05:56 PM

I have had the same problem my refrigerator. The interior lights would not go out. I discovered this problem before the lights had a chance to start melting the light kit and removed the bulbs. I prerformed a circuit check on both light switches and found them to be good. I called sears and they sent a repairman and confirmed that the sears trio refrigerators have a switch relay problem. Good thing it is still under warranty. The circuit board that controls the lights is bad and has to be replaced. He also stated that the manufacturer reconmmends using 40 watt bulbs instead to the 60 watt bulbs it came with.

***Jake*** · #6 April 24th, 2008, 11:33 PM

Was it this board the tech. replaced:
Manufacturer part#6871JB1423B is RepairClinic item#1360279

Jake

***Springer*** · #7 April 18th, 2009, 09:48 PM

Hey Jake,
Remember me? You helped me repeatedly with a HE3 Dryer, which eventually I traced the problem to an odd electrical short. Your help was invaluable, and I would still be using the washer and dryer, except that Hurricane Ike flooded my garage (about 9 inches), and they just weren't the same after that, so I reluctantly ditched them... (I bought HE5's, for better, or for worse... Hopefully for the better...)

Anyway, sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I have the same problem (light staying on) with a Kenmore Elite Trio (Model 795.77562600) Three Door. Bought in October 07, so I am out of the one year warranty.

I had the same smell/heat/melted light housing.
I unscrewed the bulbs, and let it cool for a few hours, screwed the bulbs back in, and it worked fine - both door switches turned the lights off, no problem.

I switched all the bulbs out for 40 watt bulbs - seemed like a good suggestion, and I had no problems for a few weeks.

Tonight, same issue - lights wouldn't go out. I unscrewed the bulbs, let it cool for an hour or two, and put the bulbs back, and its working fine again, but I am now suspicious....

I notice that when I use the door pin switches to test, I can clearly hear a relay click, which (obviously?) does not click when the lights are stuck on.

What is your suggestion on where to start? I did not think to pull the switches while the lights were stuck on, and test them, but my uneducated gut feeling is that its a relay issue - its either overheating and sticking open, or the controller (board) is somehow overheating and screwing up.

In any case, I think I need a new light kit, because I don't think the plastic cover will fit anymore, and the light sockets are slightly brown on the ends nearest the bulbs.

Your wise advice is much appreciated!!!
--Michael

***Jake*** · #8 April 18th, 2009, 11:31 PM

Hi Michael,

Yes, sounds like you need the relay board.

The Sears site is down tonight for maintenance, I'll check tomorrow morning for your relay board and light kit.

Jake

***Springer*** · #9 May 3rd, 2009, 11:40 PM

Jake,
Please update with the part numbers when you have the chance, thanks!!!
--Michael

***Jake*** · #10 May 4th, 2009, 09:20 AM

Sorry Michael,

Here's the control board for your model:
Manufacturer part number EBR34917104 is RepairClinic item number 1463582

Here's the lamp cover:
Manufacturer part number 3550JJ1070B is RepairClinic item number 1267192

Here's the light harness assembly:
Manufacturer part number 6621JK2003B is RepairClinic item number 1268261

Jake

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