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Thread: Ge Profile Artica not reaching 0 degree

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Manassas Va.
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    10

    Default Ge Profile Artica not reaching 0 degree

    I'm new here and love reading some of the comments and suggestions. I have a problem and a question.

    I have a GE Artica side by side freezer/Refrigerator. I believe the model is PSS26SGRD.
    The problem I'm having is the freezer will not go do to 0 degrees. This is the recommended number on the door digital display on the refrigerator side. 0 is for the freezer and 37 is for the refrigerator.

    Right now the freezer is hovering around 20 and the refrigertaor is 36-42.

    The temperature continues to go up and down by a couple of degrees for both sides.

    I opened the back panel inside the freezer and noticed some ice buildup on the two bottom coils. I unplugged the the unit and let it thaw. After it thawed I plugged it back in and let it stay closed for a couple of days and I get the same thing.

    I'm not sure what else to do. Originally when I first plugged it in with no food in it..everything worked fine. It got down to 0 and the other side reacheed 37. There's no dust or debris under or behind the unit and to me the fans and motors sound ok.

    help please....!!!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Wichita Falls, Texas USA
    Posts
    963

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    ""I have a GE Artica "" I am soooo sorry.. ..however sounds like you may have a defrost problem, which would mean either a bad motherboard, defrost heater or bi-metal/sensor.....these friges are a whole nother animal...if you got better cooling after defrosting the ice suspect a defrost problem, if not you may have a sealed system problem developing...we will wait for others that know these units better to help you further...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Manassas Va.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pegi at Sams View Post
    ""I have a GE Artica "" I am soooo sorry.. ..however sounds like you may have a defrost problem, which would mean either a bad motherboard, defrost heater or bi-metal/sensor.....these friges are a whole nother animal...if you got better cooling after defrosting the ice suspect a defrost problem, if not you may have a sealed system problem developing...we will wait for others that know these units better to help you further...

    I'm not sure if there is any true way to tell which component is bad.

    Do you know what the model number of the "bi-metal/sensor" is from the Appliance Parts website? I see the other two.

    I'm going to check the freezer temp today when I get home and go from there. I don't think these items will be hard to replace. I'm a fairly technical person.

    90 bucks for the MB and 50 for the defrost heater isn't bad. Too much beyond that I may have to buy a new fridge.....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    sf bay area, ca
    Posts
    18

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    My sympathies - I also own one of these atrocities. When ours had the temp problem it turned out to be that the condensor fan wasn't working properly. We didn't have any ice buildup though.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darkness View Post
    I'm not sure if there is any true way to tell which component is bad.

    Do you know what the model number of the "bi-metal/sensor" is from the Appliance Parts website? I see the other two.

    I'm going to check the freezer temp today when I get home and go from there. I don't think these items will be hard to replace. I'm a fairly technical person.

    90 bucks for the MB and 50 for the defrost heater isn't bad. Too much beyond that I may have to buy a new fridge.....
    If you have an ohm meter, I would test your defrost thermostat(bi-metal)#240 here:
    http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImageP...&titleID=00004
    for continuity with it still frosty.

    Here is the defrost thermostat for your model:
    Thermostat, defrost


    Here is your defrost heater assembly:
    Defrost heater and bracket assembly

    Here is your main control board(motherboard):
    Main control board

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  6. #6
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    Aug 2007
    Location
    Manassas Va.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake View Post
    If you have an ohm meter, I would test your defrost thermostat(bi-metal)#240 here:
    http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImageP...&titleID=00004
    for continuity with it still frosty.

    Here is the defrost thermostat for your model:
    Thermostat, defrost


    Here is your defrost heater assembly:
    Defrost heater and bracket assembly

    Here is your main control board(motherboard):
    Main control board

    Jake
    Jake, I don't have any problems with spending the money for all three of these items. Is it just worth it to go ahead and do that instead of trying to figure out which one is bad?

    If I bought a new thermostat but it turns out not to be that i'll have to spend money again and for shipping to try out the second and third component. What do you think?

  7. #7
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    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    If you order these parts from the links I posted, you have 30 days to return the one or ones you don't need for a full refund. Other than that you would need to test the bi-metal and heater for continuity.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Manassas Va.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake View Post
    If you order these parts from the links I posted, you have 30 days to return the one or ones you don't need for a full refund. Other than that you would need to test the bi-metal and heater for continuity.

    Jake
    Jake thanks for the info.

    Now Here we go. Here's what I've done so far....

    I received the parts. I immediately got to work. I ohm tested the original thermostat defrost.. I didn't really know what I should have been looking for.I know how to volt test. Since I wasn't sure I ohm tested the new part to see if my readings matched up. They pretty much did. Again, I'm not sure if I was doing something wrong though.

    But I went ahead and replaced the thermostat. The temp went from 47 to 20 and sat there for 24 hours. I proceeded to replace the defrost heater and you guessed it. It sat a 20 over night but never budged from that point. Additionally I notice ice protruding from the back of the freezer where the coils are. Now I don't know what to do or what to think at this point. I guess the heater is not keeping that ice melted...assuming that's what it's supposed to do.

    Well, for kicks and giggles, I replaced the motherboard and it sat at 20. Never reaching the recommended 0, even thought that's what I set it for. All this time the refridgerator was fine reaching the recommended 37.

    I was wondering why ice wasn't being made or the motor to turn the ice despenser wasn't working and it dawned on me I failed to connect the power for the motor. So I unplugged the fridge, made the connections, put everything back in the freezer and plugged it up. NOW the freezer reads 0 and the fridge is hovering at 47. I will monitor it but I'm not sure if I'm getting a false positve. Since plugging it up I didn't think it was suppose to be at 0 so soon. I thought it had to work its way down like it did when I replaced the thermostat. Again the fan is blowing fine. I'm not sure if my issue is compressor related but that's why I'm here. Hopefully some one can help me figure this out.

  9. #9
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    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Ok, let it run about 24-48 hours to stabilize, try to keep the doors closed as much as possible.

    Can you take a temp. reading of both the freezer & refrigerator section with a separate thermometer?

    This is the one I use in mine:
    Thermometer



    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Manassas Va.
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake View Post
    Ok, let it run about 24-48 hours to stabilize, try to keep the doors closed as much as possible.

    Can you take a temp. reading of both the freezer & refrigerator section with a separate thermometer?


    Jake
    I'll do tha an let you know the results. I noticed last night before I went to bed that the temp moved from 0 (factory default) to 28. When I finally went to bed it was at 24. I checked this morning and the fridge came down to 37 which is the fatory recommended setting. I will check this evening to see what the freezer is. I'll head to the store today to get a good thermometer to get an accurate reading.

    At one point my wife said she didn't hear the fan running like normally but at a while it came back on. I told her that maybe normal. So far, as of this morning, I didn't see any ice buinday what's up. l'll let you know saturday or sunday what's up.

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