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Thread: Kitchen Aid Superba KGSC308LSS0 won't heat

  1. #1
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    Unhappy Kitchen Aid Superba KGSC308LSS0 won't heat

    After working fine for over 2yrs (came with the house so not sure how old it is) my Kitchen Aid superba oven will no longer heat. The stove top and broiler work fine, but when I try to use the bake setting, the digital display shows "Lo" and it never heats up. I reviewed old posts about this but they all seem related to a self-clean problem. We have not used self clean for over 1 year. Any ideas?

  2. #2
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    Default

    Hi,

    You would need a volt/ohm meter, you can get a cheap one at Radio Shack.

    Here's the parts diagram for your model:
    KGSC308LSS0
    Diagram#1 Part location#6 is your oven igniter glow bar, you would need to see if your getting 120 volts at the connector for that with the oven on bake. You can access it from the bottom after you take your bottom storage drawer out.

    If you do have 120 volts at it, and its not glowing orange/red then you would need a new oven igniter glow bar.

    If you don't have 120 volts to it, then its likely your control board is bad, its located in Diagram#2 Part location#10 in your parts diagram link I posted.

    Jake


    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  3. #3
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    Default Not sure if using volt meter correctly

    Using the diagram you sent me, it looks like there are 2 glow bars (2 parts labeled #6.) When I remove the drawer to access them ,it looks like the top #6 has one wire going up behind the range and one connected to the bottom #6. The bottom #6 has one purple wire going up behind the range and one double wire that splits, one to the top #6 and one behind the range.

    Have I identified the right part? Which peice should glow? Where should I conect the black and red leads from the meter?

    Thanks

  4. #4
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    Default Picture

    I have attached a photo so you can see exactly what I am seeing.

    Thanks
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  5. #5
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    Default

    The bottom glow bar is the bake one, just follow the bottom glow bar wires back to that metal safety valve(says warning on it) in the photo, looks like one glow bar lead goes on top the other glow bar lead goes on the bottom, just put your meter leads on each, and see if you get 120 volts with your oven on bake.

    If you do read 120 volts and your bake glow bar isn't getting red, then its bad.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  6. #6
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    Default Meter reading

    When I check from where the top white wire enters the metal safety valve to where the bottom white wire enter the metal saftey valve, with the Oven setting on, I get O on my voltmeter. When I check from the bottom white entry point to the adjacent purple wire's entry point I get O on my voltmeter in the bake setting, 2.8 in the broil setting. I have the meter set on 200AC volts. I tested it in a regular outlet and get a reading of 123 so it must be working OK.

    What next?

  7. #7
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    Default

    I found the tech. sheet for your model here:
    www.applianceblog.com/manuals/Tech_Sheet_9754241.pdf
    Looks like on this model you have a thermal cut-off fuse, if that fuse went out, that would not allow power to your bake glow bar.

    Click here:
    KGSC308LSS0
    Diagram#4 Part location#17 is your thermal fuse, you can ohm that for continuity, unplug your range first, or turn the breaker off, then ohm it.

    Looks like its located under the control panel.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  8. #8
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    Question Thermal cut-out or Thoermostat, fix?

    Thanks Jake. I ohm tested what I think is the thermal fuse. In the attached picture, there are 2 fuses. The one on the right (when facing the oven) has a red and blue cap attached to it.This one tested at 170ohm. The one on the left, has 2 red caps attached. This one tested at 0 ohm and I assume this is the problem. Looking at the parts list you sent me, it is not clear if this is part #17 (thermal cut-out) or part #20 (thermostat, fix).

    Which part should I order? Also, when I replace it, how do I remove the wires with plastic caps attached to the fuse. Do they just pull off?

    Thanks fo all your help.
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  9. #9
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    Default one more thing

    I am not sure I ohm tested correctly. I didn't remove the wires entering the fuse for fear of breaking something. I just placed the multimeter leads on the metal circles where the wire attached (with the oven unplugged and the breaker off) and got the readings I mentioned above.

  10. #10
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    Default

    On your ohm meter, touch your meter leads together and what does it read?

    The thermal fuse is the one with the red/violet wire connected to it. Take that wire off the ohm your thermal fuse.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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