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Thread: Kenmore 665.17362300 cycle issues

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    15

    Default Kenmore 665.17362300 cycle issues

    I am having issues with my unit not cycling all the way through. It seems to run through the wash cycle, then the unit just stops and does not drain. I have to hit the cancel button 3-4 times, then it will drain. When I run the diagnostics on it all the lights come on, then just the quick rinse and drying lights remain on. the drying light clears and the unit starts to cycle. It will run for approx 3min 20 sec then it just stops. It is drained when I open the unit. Also, when I run the quick rinse cycle the unit will drain. I have replaced the heating element and the control panel, although I am curious if there is a way to test if my heating element is receiving power. If you have any other thoughts about what may be my issue I would love to hear them.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    69,987

    Default

    Hi,

    You should have a tech. service sheet behind the bottom access panel that you can put it through the diagnostics to test the components including the heater.

    Run the diagnostics test, then when its done, feel to see if your element is hot, you may have to run the diagnostics twice if the element isn't hot, if after the second run of the diagnostics your element is still not hot, then its definitely your element.

    But is sounds more like your control board is bad.

    Here's the control board for your model:
    Main Control Board 8564543 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy.


    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    15

    Default

    I have already replaced both the element and the control board. That is why I was curious if there was a way to test for voltage going to the element, or if there was another componet like the thermostat that could cause this issue.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Default

    Ok, I was going by what you said here:
    I have replaced the heating element and the control panel
    The control panel you said you replaced, but you probably meant the control board.

    As for the heating element, that shouldn't make it just stop and not drain.

    Hitting the cancel button 3-4 times then it drains, sounds more like your control panel keypad assembly needs to be replaced if you already replaced the control board.

    Just choose your color:

    Here's the control panel for your model in Black:
    Whirlpool 8557775 Panel-Control


    Here's the White one for your model(no photo): Whirlpool 8557776 Panel-Cntl

    Here's the Bisque one for your model(no photo): Whirlpool 8557777 Panel-Cntl

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Iowa
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    Default

    I was a little off on my terminology. I had replaced the control board. I will order a new panel and see how it goes. Thanks for the help. I will update after I replace my touch pads.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Default

    Ok, sounds good.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
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    Default

    I did what you recommended and ran my diagnostics a few times in a row. My heating element never did get warm, but I don't think it ever tried to go into the drying cycle. Should I still get a new control panel, or is there something else I can look at?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Ok, That heating element may be bad.

    The only way to test it for sure is to pull out your dishwasher to get access to your heating element terminals and ohm it with an ohm meter, A normal heating element should read about 10-30 ohms.

    Make sure your breaker is off to your dishwasher before you ohm it, make sure you take both wires off your heating element before you ohm it as well.

    Yes, I still think you need the control panel keypad assembly.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
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    Default

    Me heating element checked out good @ 12 ohms. After I put everything back together I ran another diagnostic sequence, and this time everything worked right. So I ran a test load and everything seems to be working correctly at this time...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Thats great, glad its working again, keep us posted if it starts acting up again.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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