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Thread: Kenmore Elite 110 Gas Dryer - Burnt Smell Runs Hot

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Detroit
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    Default Kenmore Elite 110 Gas Dryer - Burnt Smell Runs Hot

    Greetz all and thanks in advance for any assistance.

    I have a Kenmore Elite model number 110.74952300 gas dryer.
    Not sure what the deal with this model number is as it does not come up on Repair Clinic's Kenmore model listing for parts, and a quick Google only came up with 2 sites. I triple checked the number, and it is correct. Guessing the serial is useless, but it is MR0701958.

    So now to the point...

    I have had this dryer for around four years now.
    Never had any trouble at all.
    Yesterday, while running the dryer on permanent press, a really bad smell was noticeable from the vent outside and inside the dryer itself. Completely permeated the clothes I had in there.
    The best way to describe the odor is like charcoal fluid and burned paper.
    There was no damage to any clothes, other than the smell.
    I also noticed that the clothes, door, and drum were hotter than normal for the perm press setting.

    My first thought was lint in the burner tube.
    So I opened the lower access and sure enough, lint city.
    I ran it and watched as the igniter heated up, the gas turned on and ignited, burned for about 2-3 minutes, then turned off. It did cycle on and off a couple times, so all appeared as it should at first glance.

    I had not cleaned under the unit in about 2 years, and only then with as much as my small shop vac could reach without completely dissembling the unit . The vent stack is brand new metal duct with a full metal 90 and 45. It was installed about a month and a half ago. When I replaced the duct, I also cleaned the exhaust vent to the outside, and made sure the dampener worked freely. So no clogging there. (I did double check, just to be sure)
    I did notice a small pile of ash from lint inside the burner tube.

    At this point I decided to take the whole thing apart for a good cleaning.
    I was amazed at how much lint got passed the screen. ( I clean it after every load) The duct from the lint screen to the squirrel cage was fairly clogged, and there was a good amount of lint throughout the floor. I took everything I could apart and wiped and vacuumed all of it save for the burner assembly. I left that in place and cleaned as much as I could around it and inside the burner tube.

    I did notice the paint on the rear half of the burner tube both inside and out had decayed, and had a rough, rust colored coating. I could see this as normal from heat, but I thought I'd mention it anyway.

    There was absolutely no evidence of burned lint anywhere save for the small amount in the burner tube. Also, there was no burned, brittle, or otherwise damaged wires. The igniter looked fine, and showed no signs of grounding. (I did remove that for a close inspection.) I took the squirrel cage apart and throughly cleaned it's housing, the blades, and the interior exhaust duct. Also, I removed the motor and gave it a good once over.

    I was careful to give each area and piece the smell test to see if I could isolate the the odor's source, but to no avail. I noticed it the most in the squirrel cage housing, but the blades spun very easily and freely, and the motor had no smell at all, nor obvious signs of wear. My guess is it was in the accumulated lint inside the housing duct.

    So now the entire unit is as lint free as I can possibly get it, and believe me when I say this as I spent 2 hours cleaning it. My last check was the controls. A close inspection revealed nothing obviously damaged on the board or any connections. I had read about a problem with the R2 resistor/transistor on the board, but there was no problem there I could see.

    So, after putting the whole thing back together I ran it again on perm press and watched again as the igniter heated, the gas came on and lit and away we go.

    HOWEVER! The burner did NOT cycle off this time. I ran it for a while and again noticed the smell, although not as severe. I turned it to delicate, started it again, and again the burner did not cycle off. I ran it on air dry, and it did not ignite, as it shouldn't. Ran it on delicate again, and again, no burner shut off. Also the drum got much hotter than it should on delicate. I did not test temp at the exhaust of the unit. Also, and I have no idea if this is normal, but the flame extends all the way to the back of the tube and begins to go up the intake shaft to the drum. I realize there is a vacuum involved here, but I don't know if it should draw the flame in so far.

    So, my thought still lies at the burner tube for obvious reasons that it is first in the chain and everything past it stinks like hell!
    Could the smell come from the coating of the burn tube burning off?

    I know this was a long read, but I wanted to be as detailed as possible.
    Not much help for me to say my dryer is too hot!

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Default

    Hi,

    The model# is good, it came up fine for me at the Sears parts site.

    Could the smell come from the coating of the burn tube burning off?
    Nope, not likely.

    Have you painted or varnished anything inside the home recently?

    If so read this link:
    http://www.applianceaid.com/gas_dryer.html#odour

    You will also need to pull your dryer out from the wall, and take its temperature from the back exhaust vent(take the exhaust hose off first), with no clothes in your dryer.

    Let us know what you find.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Murray, Utah, United States
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    18,496

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    Lots of information and very detailed. That's what we like to see. The dryer running too hot is most likely the internal bias thermostat needs to be replaced. That's the one on the blower housing and has 4 wires on it. Part# 3387134. The burning smell is a little puzzling. When a dryer starts running too hot I've found it's common to find certain materials will melt on the back wall where the holes are located for the heat. Look there and see if there is anything melted on it. However when it starts getting that hot the thermal fuse usually goes out. If it was getting too hot because of an air flow problem the safety thermostat should shut it down. Do you have any way of taking a temperature reading at the vent of the dryer with the vent hose removed?
    OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
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  4. #4
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    Murray, Utah, United States
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    LOL... Jake and I posted at the same time.
    OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
    APPLIANCE TECHNICIAN FOR 29 YEARS
    REFRIGERATION SPECIALIST
    ONLINE SERV TECH: ApplianceBlog.com
    CERTIFIED TYPE 1; TYPE 2.....REFRIGERATION SERVICE E.S.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Detroit
    Posts
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    Default

    Hi, Guys!
    Thanks so much for the fast replies!!!!!!!

    It appears a shotgun blast to the drum is not necessarily in order.

    I had read quite a few posts regarding a burnt smell in the dryer on this and other help sites. Many of them included either asking the person if paint was possibly the culprit, as suggested by Jake, or some other home improvement project. I think the general owner reactions of "no way" "the tech is just lazy" etc. blinded me to the obvious.

    This shames me to come clean here, but the same day the smell began, I had a drywall wall installed in my basement. No paint, mind you, but a good amount of construction adhesive! I could smell it as soon as I walked into the basement. If my chemistry classes still serve me, vapors from products like this are heavy and tend to drop in the air to the floor. Which of course is right where the dryer draws in it's air. Silly, silly homeowner!

    As for the temp reading as suggested by both of you, I was able to get some readings today.

    On delicate, the burner came on on start up, and shut off at 160.
    It did cycle (maybe I was too anxious last night after screwing with it for 4 hours)
    It came on again at 115-120, and off again at 160.
    I watched 3 cycles like this on delicate, all the same temp readings.

    On perm press, on at startup, off at 170, on at 115-120, and off again at 170.
    Watched 3 cycles on perm press as well, again same readings.

    I would assume this is within expected norms based on other posts, although I did see higher temps mentioned.

    My guess is the smell was the adhesive, and the "overheating" was a result of my not really trying to see how hot the drum or door usually got during a normal wash day. I am very fire conscious in my home, and the smell quite possibly mislead me to think the dryer was hotter than it should be.

    Also, I did note several folks asking about what to use to get an accurate temp reading. I used a digital meat thermometer and it worked great. It has a nice 4 inch probe, easy to read, could take the heat, and is cheap. I think we paid $10 for it. Just a suggestion to anyone reading this in years to come!

    Thanks to Jake and redbeardnmt !!!!!!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Those temperature readings seem fine.

    Glad you found out it was the drywall.

    Digital meat thermometers work great.

    Here's one that will work great too with ovens and dryers:
    Polder Cooking Thermometer with Timer and Clock


    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbeardnmt View Post
    LOL... Jake and I posted at the same time.
    LOL, yea, thats been happening alot lately.

    Last week, someone posted at the exact same time to the T, what are the chances of that?

    I may buy a lottery ticket!

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Detroit
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    So with the safety issues apparently resolved, one problem remains...

    My dryer still stinks!

    I have had fans running for the past 48 hours, largest one at the top of the stairs blowing down in an attempt to create an overpressure to vent the air out of the open windows. I have been running the dryer on air dry with some old jeans sprayed with Fabreeze and a bunch of fabric sheets.

    I have read odor elimination suggestions such as white vinegar, cat litter in hose, lemon juice soaked rags, etc.

    What might be your take on an effective way?
    Also, would it be better to run the dryer in a heated cycle? I don't smell the adhesive anymore, but that doesn't necessarily mean the vapors aren't there.

    Thanks again for all the help!

  9. #9
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    The best thing I found to remove smells from any appliance is PURE Vanilla Extract, not imitation.

    You can soak some rags with it, then ring them out real good and dry them on low heat.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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