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Thread: Kenmore Elite Coldspot Compressor turns on then off

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    St. Petersburg, FL
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    Question Kenmore Elite Coldspot Compressor turns on then off

    Model 106-55602400

    Freezer stopped freezing this morning. The fan above the unit in the back of the inside of the freezer is working, as is the one in the bottom back of the freezer. The unit is not frozen anywhere and there was only a bit of dirt on the coils and that is clean now as well.

    The Compressor turns on for 5 to 10 seconds and then turns off. Compressor gets hot but still able to touch it, so not excessive.

    I am guessing that rules out the relay. So what's next?

    Compressor is Embraco EGS-90HLP. Fridge is manufactured 07/2005 and Sears says is out of warranty.
    Last edited by macking; July 7th, 2008 at 08:44 PM. Reason: Added compressor info

  2. #2
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    Default

    Hi,

    Another member had this same issue awhile back, here's the thread:
    http://www.applianceblog.com/mainfor...ad.php?t=12333
    Your Kenmore is made by Whirlpool, so its identical to yours.

    Try unplugging it for 5 minutes first.

    If that didn't reset it, Then pull your refrigerator out from the wall, then take off the start device relay, and shake it, if it rattles, then its broken, yours uses the same as in that thread.

    If its ok, then I would say its your control board.

    Here's the cheapest price I found for your control board assembly:
    Manufacturer's Number: 8201659


    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
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  3. #3
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    Default Testing the relay?

    Thanks for quick response.

    I took off the relay assembly, i wouldn't say it makes a lot of noise, just a little. If there is an easy way to test it I have a multimeter, just don't know what to look for.

  4. #4
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    Yes, ohm it for continuity on the ohms scale of your meter. Ohm the 2 holes in the start relay that are adjacent to each other.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
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    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
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  5. #5
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    Default Relay tests ok I think

    Jake, thanks for your quick reply.

    I took the relay off, it appears to be a 2 piece unit, a 2 pronged piece plugged into the larger piece that has the 3 holes. I tested between the two holes that are side by side and had 0 Ohms resistance.

    Shaking it produces a tiny bit of sound, but not a loud rattle or anything.

    So, which way do I go? The board, relay, thermostat, condenser?

    Neither the refrigerator or freezer cool now. I tried unplugging for an hour or so and even tried a different power source. No luck.

    I appreciate any help.

  6. #6
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    Ok, Does the compressor still come on for 5-10 seconds then quits?

    After the compressor quits, test for 120 volts at the compressor relay, if 120 volts is present, then you have a bad compressor.

    Your compressor is under warranty for 5 yrs. Parts & Labor.

    Here's your owners manual that states that:
    http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0523171.pdf

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  7. #7
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    Default Testing

    Jake,
    The compressor comes on every 5 minutes or so and stays on for 5 to 10 seconds.

    So, to confirm, I am going to plug in the relay to the compressor and then wait for it to cycle through the compressor turning on then off.

    After that, where would I put the two probes to test for the 120 Volts? That probably sounds like a stupid question but I just want to be sure I do things right.

    Thanks again, and again.

  8. #8
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    You put one meter probe between the overload hole(single hole by itself), and the other meter probe in either of the 2 holes that are lined up. In fact if you don't get 120 volts in one of the lined-up holes, put it in the other, leaving the other probe in the (single hole by itself).

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  9. #9
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    Default Results

    Ok, I am not sure if I did this right but here is what happened.

    Plugged in refrigerator, compressor came on, went off in 10 seconds.

    Waited 5 minutes, it came on again, then off. I unplugged relay from compressor and tested voltage by inserting probe into the single hole and either of the other aligned holes. Everything came up 0, no change on the meter at all which was set for 150V AC.

    I didn't see a way to test the relay while it was still attached to the compressor, though I don't think that is what was needed.

    So does that sound like a bad relay? Or did I test something wrong?

    Thanks for your patience working with me.

  10. #10
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    Yes, you did it correctly by removing the relay from the compressor to test for 120 volts at the relay.

    Well, if you got no voltage at the relay, them I'd say you have a control board problem.

    Just to make sure unplug your refrigerator again, take off the relay from the compressor, put your meter probes in the holes I mentioned above, then plug your refrigerator in, and notice if you get 120 volts in any holes, if so, leave your meter probes in for a couple minutes to see if the 120 volts stays.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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