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Thread: [FIXED] Whirlpool Gold error code d3

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ohio
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    Default [FIXED] Whirlpool Gold error code d3

    Model Number: GU2700XTSQ0
    Brand: Whirlpool

    Wonder if anyone here can help me.

    Here's the brief history.

    Own a Whirlpool Gold GU2700XTSQ0 and it started an awful grinding noise and quite while I was away on a business trip. Came home and I tried a cycle and it wouldn't run the motor.

    I removed the dishwasher, removed the motor, took it apart and found bearings floating around. Replaced the stock motor with a replacement Whirlpool part #W10239404 (the original # 8534941 was redesigned I guess, and the new motor looks different but after several calls to the distributor have concluded that it is indeed the right part).

    At first, the computer panel was giving me some weird errors. Fast flashing normal light - would not respond to input. So I unplugged the unit and reset the ribbon connector on the control panel. This cleared the error and we ran the dishwasher for one complete cycle with no issues whatsoever.

    We ran it a second time last night on Adaptive Wash. My wife noted an unusually high time on the display (95 minutes), but we let it run.

    Woke up today to find the panel indicating a solid Power Scour light and two horizontal dashes in the LED window. Clicked start and it started a 2 minute drain cycle. When that cycle ended, the Power Scour light came back on and the panel became unresponsive.

    I again disconnected the ribbon at P1 on the control panel and the panel became responsive. I ran a diagnostics test (Normal and Heated dry, alternated several times) and the unit displayed "D3" then went into a 16 minute cycle of some sort which ultimately ended in the same Power Scour solid light locked panel issue.

    I've already sunk $130 on a motor (which obviously needed replaced), so I'm committed to fixing this thing.

    My initial guess would be that I need to replace the electron control circuit board (#W10084141), another $100 - gulp. I don't see any physical issues with the board though, and I was able to get this "D3" error out of the unit. So, before I take a $100 guess:

    1. Does anyone here know what the "D3" code means?
    2. Does anyone know where I can find a list of the error codes? My googling attempts have come up short.
    3. Does anyone know what is wrong with my dishwasher?

    Thank you for helping,
    - Pete

    ************************************************** *************************************
    Just want to clarify the diagnostic test results. I just ran it again and I got "d3" followed by "06" followed by "16" (which looks like the beginning of a test cycle that is running now).

    ************************************************** *************************************
    UPDATE: Ran the complete diagnostic cycle and this time it got all the way though (at least I saw it one minute 1), but ended with a fast flashing Power Scour light. I hit the cancel button and now the Power Scour and Normal lights are flashing. The control panel will not accept anymore key inputs either.

    Another question:
    4. Does the power scour diffuser (the plastic thingee on the rail) go up and down on the rail or is it fixed at the bottom?
    Last edited by pmpilot; May 23rd, 2010 at 09:44 AM.

  2. #2
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    May 2010
    Location
    Ohio
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    Default

    Okay. I really should retitle this post. Found this on the tech sheet:

    NOTE 3. On numeric time display models,
    display the following software information after
    the initial display test:
    ■ Interval 18 – Dishwasher control platform
    number (“d3” Raptor/Tall Tub, “d2” Cheetah/
    Briva, “d1” Rush/Tall Tub, “d0” New Gen).


    The "d3" is just identifying the Raptor/Tall Tub.

    Still have the fast flashing Power Scour light and Normal lights (once a key is pushed) after the test. No workie workie. :-(
    Last edited by pmpilot; May 23rd, 2010 at 10:24 AM.

  3. #3
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    Its your control panel keypad assembly thats bad, here's the one for your model you can order:
    Manufacturer's Number: W10021020

    Here's the repair manual to your model:
    https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...LE/8178022.pdf

    Look for:

    ACCESSING COMPONENTS IN THE DOOR
    Removing the Console Panel on page 18

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  4. #4
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    May 2010
    Location
    Ohio
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    Default

    Jake,

    I appreciate the quick response.

    I suspect the Electronic Control (W10084141). The part you suggest (W10021020) appears to be the keypad. Two totally different things, correct? Or is the part you suggest the whole unit that includes the Electronic Control circuit board as well? Also, why the keypad? And why would it fail at the same time that the motor goes out?

    BTW - the link for the manual you mentioned is for the Point Voyager GU1200/GU1500 model. I have the Whirlpool Gold GU2700XTSQ0.

    I do appreciate your help. I just don't want to put hundreds and hundreds of dollars into parts I can't return...

  5. #5
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    Location
    Ohio
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    Do you know where I can find the OWI sensor to run the following test, to confirm the keypad failure?:

    From the tech sheet:

    PROBLEM: WON’T RUN AND LED ABOVE KEY(S) IS
    FLASHING RAPIDLY


    Short circuit(s) in keypad or in
    control’s input lines that read
    the keys.
    Don’t replace both: See first section
    of “Checking Keypad Operation” for
    test to determine whether shorts are
    in the keypad or the control.

    also:

    CHECKING KEYPAD OPERATION

    A rapidly blinking LED over one of the keys of the keypad (or
    sometimes a “dead” keypad/console) indicates one or more
    key switch lines are stuck or shorted on either the control or
    the keypad. To determine which one, do the following test:

    1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
    2. Open console and disconnect the keypad ribbon connection from the
    control (at P1). Put console back together.
    3. Plug in dishwasher or reconnect power.
    4. With door latched, disconnect and reconnect thermistor or OWI sensor
    two times in less than 6 seconds.
    5. Wait 10 seconds, then monitor the control’s response to the thermistor:
    ➔If the control is OK (no longer sees shorts with the keypad
    unplugged), it will respond by running service diagnostics. Listen for
    it to begin filling after it concludes the 5–10 second display test at
    the beginning of the service diagnostics cycle. Check and/or replace
    the keypad if the control responds OK.
    ➔If the control is not OK (still sees shorts with the keypad unplugged),
    then it will NOT respond to the thermistor at all and will remain off
    after 10 seconds go by. Make sure the keypad is unplugged for this
    test. Confirm that all other connections are made, the console and
    door are reassembled, power is back on, and the door is latched;
    then repeat steps 1-5 above. If still no response, replace the control.
    General Keypad Inspection:
    Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
    ■ Check keypad ribbon tail for broken/shorted/corroded/creased traces.
    ■ Check for loose connection to control.
    ■ Check for evidence of contaminants or corrosion around the perimeter
    of the keypad, on the keypad ribbon tail and/or on the keypad connector at
    the control.
    ■ Perform keypad function check.
    ■ For a final check (if possible), try replacing control/keypad with a known
    good control/keypad to identify where problem(s) persist.
    To test the model ID diodes in the keypad:
    Check each key and confirm corresponding LED turns on and that the
    proper delay selections for that model are available. If ID diodes for this
    keypad are opened or shorted, key and LED mapping and features like
    delay may be altered.
    To test an LED function:
    Confirm that the LED turns on during the “Display Test” at the beginning
    of the Service Diagnostics Cycle (see “Service Diagnostics Cycle Time
    Chart”, NOTE 2).
    Checking keyswitch contacts:
    ■ Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
    ■ Remove connector P1 from the control
    board.
    ■ Using the table at right, measure the
    resistance across the switch when the key
    is pressed.
    NOTE: The meter must be connected with
    the proper polarity.
    The resistance reading should go from
    infinity (open circuit) with the key open
    down to a readable ohm level with the
    key pressed. The level may be different
    depending on your meter, since there is
    a diode in the circuit.
    If available, you could use the “Diode
    Test” function of a digital meter, which
    will give a voltage to turn on the diode in
    the circuit.
    ➔If any switches fail this test, replace
    the console panel/keypad assembly.
    ➔If all switches test OK, replace the
    machine control board.

  6. #6
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    Trust me I've seen this happen lots and lots of times, and I've always replaced the control panel keypad assembly and its ALWAYS fixed it.

    We have a special program here, all parts you order from our links we post are returnable within 365 days for a FULL refund if they don't fix the problem.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  7. #7
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    Location
    Ohio
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    Okay. I'll trust you. I placed an order with your company for the panel. Hope the white/right one comes...

  8. #8
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    Ok, sounds good.

    Keep us posted.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  9. #9
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    Ohio
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    Default

    Part worked as advertised. Thanks for the help.

  10. #10
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    Excellent Pete, good job.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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