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Thread: York Affinity Furnace won't ignite

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    3

    Default York Affinity Furnace won't ignite

    Model Number: Affinity 8.V
    Brand: other

    Hi,

    My York Affinity 8.V Series (installed 2007) furnace will not ignite. I have followed the on-panel directions but no luck. The fan works fine but the gas will not ignite. My other identical unit is working fine.

    Any ideas for troubleshooting?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Middle Island ,LI, NY
    Posts
    387

    Default

    Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:

    1. Thermostat calls for heat.

    2. Draft inducer motor starts.

    3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes.

    4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas.

    Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. he furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Middle Island ,LI, NY
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    Default

    Below are pictures to help you identify what a flame sensor and ignitor look like. On the left is a picture of three different types of flame sensors. On the right is a picture of a hot surface ignitor. Make sure you do not touch the gray glass part of the ignitor. If you do it will shorten the ignitors life.


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    3

    Default Ignitor works in my other furnace

    Thanks Icehouse!

    So I swapped ignitors and they both work in my other furnace. So it is probably on of the other potential issues you mentioned (a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor).

    So what are some potential solutions? Maybe in ascending order of difficulty/expense for me to attempt?

    I'm ok with trying a process of elimination to see if I can isolate and remedy the problem with some help.

    Any help is greatly appreciated!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Middle Island ,LI, NY
    Posts
    387

    Default

    Problem: My furnace's ignitor does not glow? This could be a pressure switch, limit, roll out switch, or furnace control board problem.

    I see this problem many times during the heating season . When your thermostat calls for heat the draft inducer should start which creates a draft in your vent pipe. If your vent piping is open and your pressure switch is working properly the pressure switch will close the connection between two wires and send a signal to the control board saying, "Yes it is OK to continue with the ignition process."

    Also, all of your limit controls and other safety devices must be closed (a closed circuit between the two connections) to allow the furnace ignitor to glow and start the ignition process. If there is a break down in the pressure switch or other limit safety controls the furnace, for your safety, will not proceed with the ignition sequence. The computer chip inside the board says, Wooooh, something is wrong here! Most furnaces will try this sequence for a total of three times then lock out. On most furnaces the only way to get them out of lock out mode is to turn the switch (looks like a light switch) on the side of the furnace to off and then back on again.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    3

    Default York Affinity error code 4 red

    The error code is flashing 4 red (limit switch open). What is a probable issue and remedy for that error?

    Thanks!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Middle Island ,LI, NY
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    How do you test a pressure switch and other limit controls? This is for people who are experienced with electrical equipment and the use of a Volt Ohm meter. *Please never by pass a pressure switch or limit control. The pressure switch and limit switches are there for your safety. You would test by setting your volt meter to "Volts AC" and test the rollout switch by placing one meter probe on one terminal of the rollout switch and your other meter probe to a good ground. . If you get 25.85 volts on the bottom terminal the rollout is good. If I do not get any voltage on the bottom terminal then the rollout has tripped and can be reset (if equipped) by pressing in on the little button or replaced. If your rollout switch is tripped you probably have a stopped up heat exchanger or a leaking heat exchanger. I would recommend calling in a service technician to find out why the rollout switch tripped. If you have an open limit control either the furnace has over heated or the limit has gone bad. Problems that would make a limit open up would be dirty filters, dirty evaporator coil causing a restriction in the air flow or a slow blower motor (check the capacitor on the blower motor to make sure it is good). A weak blower motor capacitor will cause the blower to run slow and eventually fail. Pressure switches, and limit switches can be tested with a meter in the same manner. With the furnace calling for heat you can test each of the terminals on the pressure switch to ground to make sure the pressure switch is closed. You should be getting between 24 to 28 volts from each terminal to ground if the pressure switch is closed. If the pressure switch is open you either have a stopped up vent, drain line (if you have a condensing furnace) or bad pressure switch. Below we have three pictures of pressure switches. The picture on the left shows the full view of one pressure switch. Please keep in mind there are many different types.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1

    Default York Affinity Pressure Switch Problem

    John,

    To start let me say that I'm not a Service Tech. but do work in the same Field . I installed a York Affinity furnace 3 years ago at my house and have had the same problem as have numerous others, according to Forums that I've read. I know with mine that replacing the Pressure Switch seems to be the fix (Temporarily) but no one as of Yet seems to Know what is really causing the Problem. I've replaced the switch every year for 3 years and this year it is acting up again already after only about 2 months. The problem is it is so intermittent. I don't know if you are having the same issues or not but it definately seems to be a problem with this model although I'm not sure York has addressed the issue yet. In my case I know that the vent pipe is clear which is the 1st thing to check if your getting that code ( open or closed Pressure Switch ) If I can find my Info. I will attach the ( Cut/paste ) info. that I've come across.

    Hope this helps.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Middle Island ,LI, NY
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    Default

    What needs to be known is the manufacture of these switches (Siemens, Cutler Hammer, etc).
    Suprising that York has not pushed for further invetigation as it seems only their units.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Sandwich,ma
    Posts
    3

    Default

    I'd like to reliven this thread, I have a york Infinity 9M with the same issues, installed it 2 winters ago with no issues, last winter,2010/11 it crapped out with a 3/red code-open pressure switch, however when I checked it out the draft inducer was noisy as hell, and I checked the switch with an ohm meter and it appeaared good, so I replaced the inducer with a new one that was just as noisy as the original. that didn't work so I replaced the switch and all was well. This year,Dec.3,2011 failed again, woke up at 5, 61 degrees and the heat wasn't on. too early to go to the garage for a meter so I did a quick check, 3 red again, pulled the vacuum line and did the suck blow , it clicked, restarted it and it went threw its startup and pulled a 2 red code, while I was thinking about my next step it restarted on it's own and fired up. went up and took a shower to find it died a few minutes later. went back down did a suck and blow on both vacuum lines, and plugged the old switch from last year that was still there and it fired up and is now working fine, has completed 2 complete cycles and seems to be OK.

    Oh and right now there isn't a leaf blowing outside, and last night was calm as well, so it shouldn't be a back draft issue, although possible.

    Has anyone come up with a real solution for this probem, or a decent theory?

    PS. just for reference, I'm a decent mechanic and have worked on pretty much everything from cars to AC, and everything in between fairly successfully. Thanx Eric
    Last edited by EricJohnson; December 3rd, 2011 at 06:09 AM.

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