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Thread: Maytag Side By Side: Water Dispenser and Ice Maker Stopped Working

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ferndale, MI
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    4

    Default Maytag Side By Side: Water Dispenser and Ice Maker Stopped Working

    Model Number: MSD2650HEB
    Brand: Maytag
    Age: 1-5 years

    I've had my Maytag (side by side) refrigerator for less than 5 years and the water dispenser and ice maker stopped working within less than a minute after I replaced the water filter. I had replaced the filter several times before this with no issues; this time, it just stopped (after a small amount of trickling water).

    The water line is totally fine and has perfect water pressure, but there is absolutely nothing coming out through the water dispenser. I see no leaks or drips anywhere.

    Also, I notice a rattling sound (sometimes loud) from the refrigerator, but it's hard to tell if it's coming from the lower back (where the water inlet valve is), or from inside, on the upper, right (where the water filter housing/assembly is).

    I've seen various sites where people say that the water inlet valve needs to be replaced, OR the filter assembly needs to be replaced. Is there a way to know for sure before spending the money to buy both? I inspected both and neither seem to show any damage (cracking, leaking, etc.).

    Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm so tired of not being able to get cold water and ice! Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ferndale, MI
    Posts
    4

    Default

    ....one more thing I forgot to mention: after putting in the new filter, and realized there was no water, I removed it and put the old one back in to be sure that the issue was not related to the new filter. I've tried the bypass cap. Same result: no water whatsoever.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    68,761

    Default

    Ok, you will need a volt meter to see if your getting 120 volts at the water inlet valve. Its in the back of your refrigerator, you'd need to pull it out from the wall and remove the lower back access panel.

    Is this something you can do?

    Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
    Manufacturer's Number: 67005154

    67005154
    The bigger blue hole is the water dispenser side of your water inlet valve.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ferndale, MI
    Posts
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    Default

    Thank you, Jake. I do not have a volt meter, but I know someone who has, and can help me out with testing the valve. I'll give it a try and update with the results. So, dumb question, but if it is not getting 120 volts, is it safe to say that the valve is what's causing the issue?

    BTW, I have already had experience removing the rear panel (when I inspected for leaks and whatnot), so that should be easy!

    Thanks again!
    Last edited by klm1971; May 31st, 2011 at 05:22 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    68,761

    Default

    No, if its NOT getting 120 volts to it when you press the water dispenser lever in the front dispenser, then its a problem in your dispenser control.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ferndale, MI
    Posts
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    Default

    Ok, Jake - I'm glad I asked!

    Just as a side note: The light on the dispenser's front panel has never gone out (It has been illuminated since this issue began). Not sure if that makes a difference or not, but thought it wouldn't hurt to share anyway.

    If it does turn out to be the dispenser lever, will that be a tricky repair to make? Changing the inlet valve seems relatively straightforward to me, but I wanted to be prepared in case I need to change the lever instead. Thanks.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    68,761

    Default

    Yes, its starting to sound more like your dispenser control board is the issue now with what you said about the dispenser light staying on since this problem started.

    So I would absolutely say its the dispenser control board if your not getting 120 volts at the water inlet valve.

    Here's the dispenser control board for your model you can order here:
    Manufacturer's Number: 67004258


    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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