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Thread: GE Profile refrigerator too cold and freezer too warm

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Default GE Profile refrigerator too cold and freezer too warm

    Model Number: PDS22SFSLSS
    Brand: GE
    Age: 1-5 years

    I have a GE Profile top refrigerator/bottom freezer model #PDS22SFSLSS. I have set the fridge portion on the highest temp possible (47) and the temp still stays in the 20's and freezes everything. On the other hand, the freezer stays too warm (teens). When you open the fridge, the metal portion up front that seperates the fridge and freezer is extremely hot to the touch. I have removed the bottom back panel to check the condenser fan motor as I have seen suggested on many other threads. The fan was not moving and covered in dust. When the fan was touched, the fan did start to move, but not very fast and has since stopped on it's own. I cleaned and vacumed out all of the dust. The fan will only move now when started by hand and will then stop shortly after. I have placed a small fan behind the fridge and have it aimed at the coils and am waiting now to see if the temp changes. Also, I thought I saw that the coils should be covered in frost??? Is that right? Because mine are not. Is this a fan motor issue or a control board issue? I have seen similar posts showing it couls be either.
    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Default Update

    After the fan blowing on the coils for 2 hours the temp in the freezer has dropped from 9 degrees to 4 degrees. So that's going the right direction but the fridge is still getting cooler. The temp in the fridge has gone from 23 degrees to 21 degrees. But, the metal piece in the front that seperates the fridge from the freezer is no longer hot.

  3. #3
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    Virginia
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    Question Yet another update

    I guess I should have waited a bit longer before posting the last update. It's been about 4 1/2 hours now since I've had the fan blowing on the, I guess what you call, coils and now things seem to be evening out in the fridge and freezer. Still not hot to the touch and now the fridge is up to around 30 degrees! Any ideas or suggestions?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Default

    Sounds like a faulty motherboard.

    Now here's where it gets weird, you should be getting 12-15 volts DC at the condenser fan motor, We've have had a couple members say that they were getting 13 volts DC and they replaced the condenser fan motor, but that didn't fix it, it was the motherboard that fixed it.

    Here's the motherboard for your model you can order here:
    Manufacturer part number WR55X10942 is RepairClinic item number 1531075
    WR55X10942

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  5. #5
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    Jun 2011
    Location
    Virginia
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    Default

    Thanks so much for the reply. I am going to go ahead and order the motherboard today. I am not at all questioning your expertise but out of curiousity, what makes you think it's the motherboard? I have had the fan blowing on the back for 4 days now and the temps are both staying in the correct range and the metal piece is no longer hot. Is it the motherboard that's not "telling" the fan to run? Thanks again!

  6. #6
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    Default

    Well, GE had many issues with the motherboard as you can see from all the threads and posts other members have posted.

    Is it the motherboard that's not "telling" the fan to run?
    Your exactly correct.

    Order the new motherboard and you should be good to go.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  7. #7
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    Default

    Already have it coming this way. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the help.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Ok, sounds good.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  9. #9
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    Location
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    Default

    Well, I thought things were going good but since yesterday, not so much. :-( We installed the new control board on Sunday and up until yesterday the temps seemed to be staying in the correct range. When the control board was first installed, the fan started turning immediately. However, yesterday the temp started dropping in the fridge to the same levels as before (20's) and it is still that way today. I have the fridge set to 42. The only difference from before is that the metal part separating the fridge and freezer is not hot this time. At least not yet. Is the fan motor bad too? Or do you think the fan motor is bad and not the control board? Thanks!

  10. #10
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    Default

    Ok, Sounds like the motherboard fixed the condenser fan motor in the back of your refrigerator, but how is the fan running in the freezer? Can you hear it running when you open the freezer door? If not, push the freezer door light switch and see if it starts running.

    Since its still in the 20's in the refrigerator section that indicates the thermistor in the refrigerator section next to your top air damper may be the fault of that.

    First test the thermistor, should be about 16.3 K ohms. Shawn has a good page that shows you how here: Testing A Refrigerator Thermistor On A GE Refrigerator

    This page will also help GE Refrigerator Repair Guide

    Thermistor WR55X10025 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

    Watch this video:



    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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