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Thread: New Ice Maker Not Working

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    7

    Default New Ice Maker Not Working

    Model Number: KSCS25INSS00
    Brand: KitchenAid
    Age: 1-5 years

    I just installed the new ice maker that was shipped from Repair Clinic. (KitchenAid Superba KSCS25INSS00)

    It has been installed for 4 hours and has not done anything.

    Some background:

    1. The initial indication that the ice maker was broken came when it was stuck in heater/harvest mode and melted all the ice and the food on the top 2 shelves. Flooded the kitchen.
    2. Performed an optics test before ordering the new ice maker and it was two blinks followed by a pause. When the flapper was depressed it was solid. After installation of the new ice maker, the optics seems to be a bit more erratic. (long blink, pause, short blink, pause - but only sometimes)
    3. The water line is not frozen
    4. Have not used any jumpers yet because the fix seemed obvious
    5. The freezer works great - right on the set temperature.
    6. I had a repairman come by initially and he said that I needed a new ice maker.

    Does this thing take a while to get going?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    70,664

    Default

    Yes, I've seen some ice makers take up to 24-48 hours to start.

    Give it till overnight and see if it started.

    If not then you'll need to check the in-line fuse on the ice maker wire harness.

    This is how:
    Ohm the in-line thermal fuse, its located on the wiring harness to the ice maker. If that in-line thermal fuse is open, then that blew out as well..

    It comes integrated with the ice maker wire harness, in case you need to order it:
    Manufacturer part#2187467 is RepairClinic item#908660


    Its the black wire, ohm that black wire for continuity.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    Default

    Thanks Jake. It has now been installed for 15 hours.

    I was just going to take it out to perform an OHM test but noticed the teeth had moved. Previously the teeth were sitting around 2:00 (looking from the dial of the controller side). Now they were sitting at 7:00.

    I watched and saw them move clockwise back to 2:00. I felt the mold and it was warm. The only issue is that there was no water and no ice.

    I guess I can rule out the fuse issue as we have some action, but the controller is not triggering any water. BTW - The rubber tube from the ceiling is still not frozen, so water should be able to run out.

    Thanks again for your help!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Default

    Ok, yes then the fuse is fine.

    Now you'll want to test the water inlet valve solenoid with a cheater test cord, read here: Testing ice maker water supply at the solenoid

    Let us know what happens.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  5. #5
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    Jul 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    Default

    I have seen the ice maker go through a couple more cycles without dispensing water to the fill cup/mold.

    Instead of doing the cheater test for the solenoid, can I just jumper a couple holes on the controller? It seems easier to me. Pulling my flush-mount fridge out is a pain.

    I can't imagine it is the solenoid anyway because that part was working fine before the ice maker controller broke.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Yes, you can jump the L & V on the module and that will send 120 volts to your water inlet valve and see if water comes out from your black rubber fill tube above your ice maker. Just make a jumper wire with 1/2" of the wire insulation removed from both ends of it. You have to push the freezer light switch in while the little jumper wire is in the L & V test points.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  7. #7
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    Jul 2011
    Location
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    Default

    Hi Jake,

    I jumped L and V, had the ice maker on, and pushed in the freezer light switch. Nothing happened. I think my jumper was pretty tight and a jiggled it during the process to make contact. No noise, nothing. Does the jumper have to be a perfect fit?

    For another data point, I have been filling the ice maker with water from a turkey baster during the cycling and it works. I have made 5-6 batches of ice so far. Also - the water at the door works fine.

    So - it's either the controller not sending a signal in some way, or the solenoid is fried - right? I

    I think it would be quite a coincidence if the ice maker and the solenoid broke at the same time. (remember, the way this whole thing started is when the ice maker got stuck in heater/harvest mode and melted the ice)

    Really appreciate your help - thanks!!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Default

    Yes, the jumper has to be a perfect fit.

    Unfortunately, you'll likely need to pull the refrigerator out from the wall, and just do the test I posted above to see if your water inlet valve solenoid for the ice maker side is good, there's no other way around it sorry.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    Default

    I re-did the jumper test with the perfect gauge copper. Same copper that is routed around the house. Still nothing.

    I'm thinking the cheater test is probably over my head, as I'm concerned about the water/electrical combo down there.

    I think my DIY project has hit an abrupt ending and I need to call a "guy" that can correctly diagnose it. Bummer.

    Just out of curiosity, how difficult/expensive is it to change out the solenoid if you find it is bad?

    I assume there are 2 - one for door water and one for ice maker. I guess I only need one, as the door water works fine.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Ok, yes, its best to have a tech. come out then.

    Changing the water inlet valve is fairly easy, its one unit with 2 solenoids on it, one for the ice maker, the other for your water dispenser.

    It comes with installation instructions.

    Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
    Whirlpool W10247725 Valve-Inlt - AppliancePartsPros.com


    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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