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Thread: Dryer makes buzzing noise when running.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Longview, TX
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    1

    Question Dryer makes buzzing noise when running.

    I have a Kenmore electric dryer model # 110.96284100 and lately (past couple of months) it has started making this loud buzzing noise when it's running. The noise is getting louder every time I use it. My mom said that it is probably a bearing or something. A part that is really cheap to repair. I can't afford a new dryer and really need this one to last. I'm pregnant and I know how messy babies are. Can you please help me?
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Default

    Hi,

    Sounds like the motor may be starting to go out.

    The motor for your model is about $120.00

    Here is the motor if you decide to order it:
    Drive motor

    But if your dryer is over 8 years old, its better to invest a new dryer.

    New dryers start at $199.00

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    VA
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    3

    Default buzzing got louder and louder...

    My Kenmore 110.86880100 was doing the same thing: buzzing louder and louder towards the end of the cycle. Recently it would also refuse to start if it had been running for awhile, and would start back up only after allowed to rest, typically for half an hour or more. In the last two weeks, not only was it louder than usual, but now it won't start at all. Pressing the PTS button yields a loud buzz, followed by a hot electronics smell, but the drum doesn't turn and the dryer does not start.

    It doesn't matter what the timer or temperature settings are. I pulled apart the console on top of the dryer and the burnt electonics smell is definitely coming from there - smells strongest right near the PTS switch. The drum turns smoothly by hand, and the belt doesn't appear to be worn. From reading this forum, I'm guessing that the motor may be gone, but since it's not clear how to get to that part of the works, (behind the blower?) I wanted to ask if this is correct, or if these symptoms might indicate either the PTS switch, or another switch in the console section, before struggling further.

    Yes, this dryer is old, but it's been reliable as heck, and was still drying clothes just fine before it stopped starting, so I'd rather fix it if I can, than replace it with a newer dryer of unknown reliability.

    - Mugsy

  4. #4
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    Aug 2004
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    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Default

    Yes, it sounds like your motor is bad as well, the PTS button may have gone bad too.

    This link tells you about your dryer, and how to get to the motor and other parts:
    http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  5. #5
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    VA
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    Default

    Jake, you totally rock! That link was very helpful, and I've looked up the parts I think I need by number. The motor comes up as #2584 but that doesn't look like my motor. The shafts look right, but the wiring and body are different. I think they're compatible, but upgraded, right?

    I noticed a wiring comparison near the bottom of this page, which I'm hoping will make more sense when I'm sitting in front of both motors: http://www.applianceaid.com/wpmotor-change.html

    Then I wondered about the fan blower - it sounds like I should pull the motor out to find out if the blower will survive, and order all needed parts together. It makes sense to me to also replace the belt while I'm there - it doesn't look very worn to me, but the threads are starting to fray along the edges.

    While struggling to pull the drum out, I realized that there must be some simple method for putting it back on, since the belt has to be wound through its path without tension on it. Is there a trick to that, or is it just brute force - hold the drum aloft with one hand while wrangling the belt on with the other?

    Thanks very much for your swift response,

    - Mugsy
    Last edited by Mugz; February 22nd, 2006 at 07:28 AM.

  6. #6
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    Yes, thats the correct motor. Its been upgraded.

    You just have to use force to get that belt on the idler pulley.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  7. #7
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    VA
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    Default

    Just wanted to let y'all know that the motor arrived swiftly, and went in - well, I won't say without ANY troubles, but it wasn't that hard once you get past the wiring. The instructions were very helpful, and thanks to my previous reading on this site I'd already picked up a few good tips on how to proceed.

    Did want to mention that it wasn't apparent at all that the idler pulley was shot until I opened the other item I ordered - the repair kit with rollers, belt and idler pulley. Once I compared the new one with the old one it was clear that there wasn't any spring left in that pulley - the metal was fatigued and it wasn't really putting much tension on the belt anymore. I used the old one as a roller for a fence gate auto-closer, for which it works perfectly.

    The whole process probably took 3 hours all together, including taking the dryer apart, so if anyone was hesitant to attempt this, don't worry, you can do it! Some of that time was taken up by searching for the right tool, struggling with some rusty screws, and that I had nearly constant canine "supervision" while lying on the basement floor.

    There's a bit of a 'gotcha' on reinstalling the drum, you really do have to check by turning the drum all the way around - not only to make sure the rear seal is riding properly on the bulkhead, but to also check the white plastic rim that fits onto the front panel. If either one is not quite right, the drum will 'thump' as it turns, so taking the time to turn the drum by hand and inspect both ends carefully will save having to take it out again and reseat it.

    Thank you very much for the great advice, my clothes are drying even as I type this!

    - Mugsy

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Default

    Good job in fixing it Mugsy, glad its working good again!

    Thanks for the added information.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Michigan
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    2

    Default dryer is not heating

    110.86880100 is my dryer model #. I run it on more dry and also on regular dry for 70 min and it takes both to dry clothes

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwmpem101197
    110.86880100 is my dryer model #. I run it on more dry and also on regular dry for 70 min and it takes both to dry clothes
    Hi,

    It sounds like you have a vent restriction, pull the dryer away from the wall and take the vent exhaust off, and see if it drys alot better, if so, then you will need to clean out your exhaust vent duct that leads outside.

    This link will help too:
    http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.html

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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